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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Access from the Walls Lookdown lookout.

Walk approximately 20m right (looking out) of the lookout near the cliff-edge, ignoring an in-situ rio bar eyelet. Just before a big bollard (5m left (looking out) of Jimmy Schlimm Schlammer, the vague corner behind the bollard), you will find a Carrot Bolt near the cliff edge, and an old Dynabolt 3m further back. Rap off the carrot and the dynabolt, backing it up off the bollard as best as possible.

Abseil down the line, clipping into a few bolts to remain in contact with the wall, to a semi-hanging belay over the void. Climb out past 10 ringbolts.

Some very loose rock, wear helmets!

Access from Walls Lookdown Lookout.

Walk 5m right (looking out) of the lookout near the cliff edge, looking for the easiest spot to downclimb to a small ledge 3m BELOW the lookout (this is BEFORE the in situ Rio Bar eyelet). Consider roping up for this scramble down. Once on the little ledge, walk back to a position directly below the lookout, locate the 2 rings, and rap 51m (clipping into bolts on the way down to stay in contact with the wall) to a semi-hanging belay over the void.

Quite runout. Consider leaving the abseil rope inplace, and bringing Jumaar's. Seconds should definitely bring Prussiks.

FFA: mikl

Climbs the entire Disco Non-Stop Party arête via a new (direct) start for one of the most sustained pitches of hard-ish arete climbing in the Blueys. Now all rings, no bolt plates necessary.

From the Walls Lookdown lookout at Pierces Pass, walk east down the hill (following the cliffline) towards Lunch Ledge, easily spotting the sharp-looking arete that is Disco Non-Stop Party.

Rap 40m from cluster of bolts at the top of the arête to a small stance on the arête (about 5m below the original belay on the face).

Step around right side of arete off the belay. Up past 4 bolts to break. Truck around left side of the arête, then up past 2 more bolts (original route rejoins from the left here) and up 7 more bolts climbing on both sides of the arête as necessary. Be smart with runner length to minimise rope-drag/wear.

It is still possible to climb the original Disco Non-Stop Party, by abseiling instead to a 2 x carrot belay on the face left of the arête, and starting up the face via carrots and fixed hangers, to join the arête at the 2nd ring on the lefthand side of the arête.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1990

Set by Paul Thomson, 2017

FA: Paul Thomson & Will Vidler, 2017

A giant 55m single pitch straight up the face between Disco Non-Stop Party and I Have a Dream on stunning rock. Now with its own (harder) direct finish! 20 bolts, and some well-placed long runners will be crucial to mitigating rope drag.

Can be accessed from the top via Walls Lookdown, or by a bolted traverse in from near Lunch Ledge (meaning your belayer doesn't have to second you) and is equipped for ground-up ascents.

For Top Access, from the Walls Lookdown lookout at Pierces Pass, walk east down the hill (following the cliffline) towards Lunch Ledge, easily spotting the sharp-looking arete that is Disco Non-Stop Party. The rap for this route is 4m left (looking out) of the bolts at the top of the arête). Rap 55m down the route to a cosy ledge.

To access the climb from Lunch Ledge, follow the normal Lunch Ledge access track (criss-crossing the creek) until just before the track takes a turn left and heads away from the little creek. Cross the creek to the right side (looking out) via convenient logs and head towards a short vibrant brown arete. Hug the rock below the arete, continue past 2 rings (anchors for Damascus below) and move through scrub until you arrive at a single ringbolt protecting the Grade 3 traverse in front (can be backed up off old carrots).

Up from the belay via easy corner. Then straight into sustained hard moves for 6 bolts. Deviate left along horizontal break to near arête, then rising traverse back right (the "elbow") to middle of face and small stance. Directly up past more hard moves separated by jugs, following the line of bolts fairly directly (no need to wander around), to a particularly hard finale.

It's still possible to climb the original (easier 26) version of the route, by heading right from the "stance" at half height, and finishing up the top half of I Have a Dream.

FA: Paul Thomson & Glen Thomson, 2015

FA: Paul Thomson & Will Vidler, 2018

From the Walls Lookdown lookout at Pierces Pass, walk east down the hill (following the cliffline) towards Lunch Ledge, easily spotting the sharp-looking arete that is Disco Non-Stop Party.

Locate 2 rings a few metres further down the hill from the arete (there are 2 carrots at the top of the arete for Disco Non-Stop Party), and rap 50m down the route, taking the RIGHT fork (facing in, the LEFT fork is for The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter)), bouncing to stay in contact with the wall (and pre-placing a few draws to direct the rope) to a fully-hanging 3 x bolt belay.

10 bolts, with an optional 0.3/0.4 cam in a slot near the top (to mitigate an exciting runout).

04/10/2014 - Replaced 2 manky bash-in carrots (with fixed hangers) with new rings. - P.T.

There is a line of old bash-in rusty carrots on the wall 20m right of Long Strong & Blonde, including a hanging belay off FHs. Bolts look to be early 90s generation. There is a collection of 5 or more old carrot on the ledge above it to. Anyone who knows more info please add it here!


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