- Height: 94m
- Ascents: 2
Very exposed route up a clean overhung wall - with zero vegetation or choss. Lots of bolts and air. Bring 20 draws (some long ones) and a 70m rap rope and 60m (or longer) lead rope. No bolt plates required. Only one belay is fully hanging. route stays in the shade from 9am until very late afternoon (it's cold!).
Approach - walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete. Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete for about 100m to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up. The route starts 5m left of the rap touch down point.
14m (22) From middle of big ledge climb short left facing fused corner, then jugs and short baffling corner to small ledge belay (DBB). 5 bolts.
32m (24) Left off the belay past diving board and up through bulge and then long technical wall to under small overlap. Left under this then continue up short corner and wall above to semi hanging belay at tiny ledge. 15ish bolts.
18m (20) Left up ramp and then reachy wall trending right to major shale ledge. Traverse 8m right (reversing the Thomson Traverse) to belay at double RB (where you rapped in from).
30m (25) Little undercut rooflet to start then long grey wall about 10m right of I Have A Dream, finishing at anchors under small overlap. Lower-off back to ledge and walk off home. 12 bolts.
At some point a pitch will be added below the first pitch - Neil just needs a new shipment of bolts!
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Route Setter: Neil Monteith, Mar 2018
Located in Walls Lookdown approx:
Route Grade Citations
|22, 24, 20, 25||Community registered grade|
|22, 24, 20, 25||Neil Monteith|
Overall quality score: 67%
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