Obvious roof crack 5 metres right of Bunny Bucket’s pitch 6 start. Use the first 3 bolts of BBB’s pitch 6, climb up to ceiling and then traverse right (size 6 cam to protect) to enter the roof crack. Requires two 5s and one 6 size cams.
Climb easy face and finish at trad belay on obvious ledge (BD 2 and small wires).
Rope drag is manageable on a single rope with 1-2 roller carabiners and several long slings.
Rappel from trad anchor to clean face (60m rope is fine). Re-lead and then back clean roof and traverse.
The first three pitches were retrobolted January 2011 entirely on RBs/UBs/FHs, so no brackets are required, although it's wise to take a couple in case you have to share belays. The first three pitches (17, 8, 19) of CC linked into the top of HC makes for a sub-20 outing.
45m (17) Low angle cracked face then slab just left of arete to ledge and anchors. Sport pitch on ringbolts.
15m (10) Short vertical crack. This pitch can be linked into pitch 1. Sport pitch on ringbolts.
40m (19) Thin black face trending slightly right to ledge. Clip high bolt (with difficulty) then crux horrible chinup/mantle onto short face and up to ledge and tree belay. Sport pitch on ringbolts.
10m Trad corner about 15m left of Hotel Cali's bolted line.
10m Short thin corner to big shale ledge. Walk 10m left to belay.
40m (22) Follow the Hotel California traverse on the top head wall for 5 bolts then head straight up the seam crack on good but spaced trad to a poor carrot belay on ledge. (U rap station 8m R and down)
45m (22) Hard moves over the bulge (two BRs) then straight up the epic trad protected juggy face. Take 8 slings. carrot and U belay.
Scramble up hill to cave. Walk right and up short rock step to under chossy upper cliffline. Walk left under this clliffline and up exit gully.
FA:Michael Law, Vanessa Peterson, Mark Wilson & Zac Vertrees, 2006