Oronga Crags Mostly Sport climbing32 routes in crag
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At least five walls situated along an easy to access ledge system with epic views.
The majority of the sectors at this area face southwest, so only get sun after 3pm. The belay ledges are wide and comfy, with minimal dirt and muck. Because of the exposed position wind can howl onto these routes and make winters icy cold. Helmets are recommended due to the featured nature of this wall - and the fact you are a long way from an easy rescue if you cop a rock on your scone.
When you visit this area you may bump into an old bearded character sunning himself on the rocks at the top, or sleeping in one of the caves. He is a friendly chap and loves carrots, but if surprised may butt heads with you. He has famously thrown bolting gear off the top of the cliff and pooed on stashed ropes. He, of course, is a goat and is an escaped pet that appeared after the mid 2010s bushfires and has taken up residence.
It's within the National Park, act appropriately. No dogs.
Park at small dirt pull off on south side of Bells Line Road (-33.5721, 150.3567). This is 250m west of Mt Banks Rd, or 1.3km east of Pierces Pass Rd. It takes about 25 minutes to drive here from Blackheath.
The walk-in is reasonably easy, mostly flat open ridge, then a short section of steep downhill and a 5m set of rungs down a gully (not suitable for young kids). It takes about 25 minutes from car to the first route. The track is reasonably worn in, and there is the odd cairn here and there. Don’t walk out at night unless you know what you are doing. From carpark follow 4WD track for 250m until it fades out on the ridge. Continue along top of ridge on a vague track for 700m to a prominent “stone hut” rock feature (visible from quite some distance -33.5799, 150.3586). Now continue along a vague trail along the ridge (sticking doggedly to the top of the ridge for the line of least resistance) for 230m (crossing the top of a rocky crest halfway) to the point where the track drops steeply down the hill in the direction of the Grose Valley. At 170m, stay left of a big rocky outcropping (-33.5829, 150.3587), and continue left down the side of the ridge and into a major gully. Follow this until it funnels down into a small canyon. Scramble down fixed rope and a short section of metal rungs down a wet chimney to emerge into large cave. Walk through right side (north) of cave and along high rock shelf under impressive undercut cliff, past exposed vegetated section (fixed rope) to emerge at first overhung orange bolted wall with comfy flat belay ledge. This is Bansky. Capricorn is another couple of hundred metres along.
Where to stay
You can camp at the end of the fireroad - you need a 4WD and its a bit noisy from the traffic but plenty of people seem to do it.
If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.
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