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Description

Long and slightly overhung routes, that usually start on jugs and finish through harder steeper terrain. Watch your rope length - many of these routes are rope stretchers and require a 70m cord to get back down. When lowering off the very top the belayer may need to use the supplied ‘lasso’ rope tied to a ground level bolt at the base Sanctum of the Victim to pull the climbers in from over the void. Or simply tram in to a halfway anchor or lower bolt, rethread and lower to ledge. This wall gets into the sun at 3pm in summer, although the steeper right side stays shady for an hour longer. In winter it gets almost no sun at all. It is wet weather protected providing there is minimal wind and no seepage at the very top.

Access issues inherited from Oronga Crags

It's within the National Park, act appropriately. No dogs.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs, but be warned - some are longer than 35m!

Ethic inherited from Oronga Crags

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Far right end of wall. Up short wall to break. Steep punch to inverted kneebar rest. Boulder out the crux traversing directly left through steep territory before latching the final drive-by and topping out on the arete.

Set by Lee Cujes

FFA: Lee Cujes, 27 Sep 2017

Jug pumper. Left trending start up feature to ledge, then overhung flake and long steep wall to anchors above horizontal break. Overhangs about 6m.

FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thomson, 26 Mar 2017

Short left trending wall above anchors then finish through steep roof above (same last two bolts and anchor as Snowflake).

Set by Neil Monteith, 2017

A long excursion through steep ground with a proper roof to finish. Take care clipping the 5th bolt - as there is potential to skim the small ledge below it. Finish on jugs just above the rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2 Sep 2017

15m left of PZ. Three bolts up short wall to ledge, then slightly overhung wall above with twin flakes, through juggy steepness and final tricky wall to anchors under monster roof section. There is a bit of sandy choss about 8 bolts up that can be avoided by staying right of the bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thomson, 2 Apr 2017

Mega pumper! Thug through steep ground above first set of anchors, then plough onwards up spaced jugs to hard finish. This a is a full 35m, make sure your rope is long enough.

FA: Neil Monteith, Paul Thomson, Emil Mandyczewsky, steve grokovic & Megan Turnbell, 1 Oct 2017

Best of the easier pitches. It’s steeper than it looks! Super sweet pumper 22 to the lower anchors (13 bolts - consider extending first 2 bolts off the ledge).

FA: Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 12 Mar 2017

The crag classic and a must do. Don't be put off by the length and angle - it's all jugs! The top section is outrageous steep climbing up an airy prow on improbable jugs, past 6 more bolts (consider extending the first bolt after the lower anchors). Might be tough at the grade.

FA: Paul Thomson, 26 Mar 2017

“Let the Buyer Beware”.

Starts 3m left of SV. Up past hard boulder problem to ledge. Easy climbing to cave, then another hard boulder problem out of the cave (easy for giants, nails for shorties - the grade is the median of both body types) to first set of anchors. 11 bolts.

FA: Paul Thomson, 7 May 2017

Good hard moves and a stunning headwall. From the lower anchors, continue up with immediately bouldery moves, traverse left, up past flake, back right to centre of stunning headwall, then crux getting to the top of the cliff. Don’t be a softy, top the cliff (mega jug just above the anchors) for the true tick! 7 additional bolts. Consider extending a few for rope drag.

Linking Sanction of the Victim P1 into the Caveat Emptor Extension (by moving left from SV anchors, then up) is a 3-star linkup.

FA: Paul Thomson & Glen Thomson, 3 Jun 2017

Climbing the 22 pitch of Sanction of the Victim and finish up Caveat Emptor Extension. This linkup is a more enjoyable variation for shorter climbers as it misses the awkward lower crux of Caveat Emptor.

The best crag warmup. Juggy fun face for 20m to midway set of lower-offs. The bottom moves are quite reachy.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Beric, 26 Feb 2017

Drought, floods, 40 degrees and 10 degrees. All in one week. This extends the easy first half into a much harder and steeper top section with a spectacular finish. 70m rope required.

FA: Neil Monteith, 13 Mar 2017

A big airy adventure and the first route bolted at the crag. Starts about 10m from the left end of the wall, at short orange corner. The first 20m of this route is cruisy jugging to break. Then a tough little ‘slab’ boulder problem, traverse slightly left and finish up baffling steep short corner. Longish draws required. Named after Neil’s 20 litre plastic barrel took flight during an epic wind storm and ended up down in the Grose valley!

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Beric, 26 Feb 2017

Another full length route going all the way to the top. First two bolts of Barrel Blow then truck left over first rooflet, up easy juggy wall then two harder walls interspersed by a small ledge.

A great combination of styles - from techy tricks to balancy moves to overhung jugs, this climb has it all. Feel the air around you when you step around the arête on to the face and from there the fun continues. Watch out for the goat!

FA: Wade Stewart & Viona Young, 6 May 2017

“Despite Neil being here first, in the absence of an organised governing body, I hereby declare this ‘crag belonging to no one’… therefore it is mine.”

The face just right of the far left arete. A long technical slab, with diabolical moves to the 4th bolt, and sustained thin slab climbing above. Some dubious rock. Finish at lower anchors in the middle of the big roof. 12 bolts. If continuing up the extension, extend the 9th and 10th and anchor bolts.

FA: Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 2 Apr 2017

Steep, intimidating, committing and mega. 3 stars for this section of the route, only 2 because of the lower half. Hard moves past the roof to gain juggy flake, then more hard steepness heading out to the arete. Climb the left side of the arete briefly (STAYING AT THE ARETE), then up to anchors. Wandering further left away from the arête is CLEARLY OFF ROUTE... You can have 24 if you do it this way). 7 more bolts, 19 in total. Consider extending 5th bolt.

FA: Paul Thomson, 9 Apr 2017

A landmark feature, but the rock is average at best! Up the major left facing corner-crack between the choss-arete and STMLTS, with much loose rock on the right wall. Hard moves through the vegetation, up scary block of mega-choss, up off-width overhanging corner (with sections of choss) and finally up into roof to lower-off anchors. The theme of the day is choss! FA was done in a giant pitch (and not using any of the nearby bolts), but best to split this into two pitches at the interim belay below the giant choss-block (or just bring 3 x full racks #0.75 to #4 and lots of runners).

FA: Paul Thomson & Lee Cujes, 21 May 2017

Climb STMLTS for 8 bolts. Trend diagonally right past a bolt and across the corner (just below big bush), continue right and onto prow. Up prow, then long crux trucking rightwards across the void to the arete, and up the square-cut overhanging arete to jugs. From there, head straight upwards (goes DIRECT at the 2nd last bolt up the blunt-arête via shallow pockets, no piking out to the right!), heading back left to anchors after the last bolt. 19 bolts total. Consider 2 or 3 extenders on the bolts where the route heads rightwards across the crack, and 1 extender for the bolt immediately after it.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2 Sep 2017

Grey slab just left of the corner finishing at first set of anchors at little ledge. Interesting and quite technical moves for the grade. For those that like slab climbing!

FA: Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 22 May 2017

From first set of anchors continue up slab above, just left of major corner (feels a bit contrived but the holds are there). Finish with an exciting traverse left and steeper finish. 60m rope a must and have plenty of draws on you.

FA: Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 29 May 2017

Consistent climbing on average rock and a little pumpy. Worth jumping on if Spoke to the mountain is busy. Totally worth it for the extension. The ugly duckling of the wall.

FA: Wade Stewart & Viona Young, 29 May 2017

Fairly straightforward climbing until the last couple of moves, which require a few tricks, depending on your height. Be sure your rope is at least 60m and you have plenty of draws on you.

FA: Wade Stewart & Viona Young, 29 May 2017

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