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Tiger Stripe Wall

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Description

The main Tiger-Striped wall, featuring many long routes around 50m in length. You will need a 60m rope minimum to fix and rap in on - and another to lead on. All routes apart from Just Don't Smoke are on good quality ringbolts - the bolting is usually quite spaced but with a smooth dead vertical wall there is not much to hit. Generally routes gets more runout in the top half and are closely spaced down low.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

From Bald Head, follow the vague footpad along the ridgeline roughly in the direction of Rigby Hill (Pierces Pass) until almost at the end of the ridge. Look for a cairn on the left, at which point break trail and head directly down the slope towards the cliff edge. The rap anchors for "Another Kojak Moment", "The Opportunistic Pathogen" and "The Dimerisation Interface" are on the right-hand side at the end of a slot between two rocky outcroppings. The next set of rap anchors are on a flat rock about 50m left (looking out).

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing left to reach belay anchors about 5m left of that route. Up long wall to anchors about 5m below the cliff-top - ignore them and traverse hard right along break and up to top anchors you rappped in on.

FA: A Duckworth & S Grkovic, 1999

Long clean face directly under the rap anchors. Rap down - climb up! Crux is in the first half then hang on for the ride up splendid orange jugs. For some reason this got zero stars in the print guides - it is a quality route - solid 2 stars.

FA: M Turnbull & S Grkovic, 1999

Sustained face climbing with some pretty cool water polished rock. Rap in down The Opportunistic Pathogen and swing right to bolt belay below crackline. The route starts easily up this bolted crackline (shared with JVD) then takes a leftwards diagonal line up thin wall to eventually join The Opportunistic Pathogen for the last couple of bolts. The top section is a touch dirty from runoff but the holds you pull on are clean.

FA: M Turnbull & S Grkovic, 1999

The easiest and tradiiest route on the wall - was the last to be climbed! Rap in from The Opportunistic Pathogen or Rocket Girl anchors to shared belay with The Dimerisation Interface. Both ways involve swinging across. From here follow the incredibly obvious cliff splitting crack to the top. Real trad climbers will ignore all the bolts next to the crack in the first 15m. Enjoy the pump! Bring a double rack with x1 #5 or #6. Belay off the double bolts on the slabby bit of rock about 10m up the hill from the cliff edge.

FFA: Mitchell Stewart & Ben Roberts, 8 May 2019

Stellar route up long orange face reminiscent of Bentrovarto Wall (but twice as long). There are so many cruxes by the time you reach the end of this you will have forgotten the first 25m. Has it's own bottom belay anchors about 5m left of Rocket Girl. Fix rap rope and swing left easily. The route is independent for about 11 bolts then joins the last 3 and top belay of Rocket Girl.

FA: S Grkovic & M Turnbull, 1999

More quality endurance wall climbing. Fix rap rope to double bolts on the small slab of rock about 10m back from cliff edge. Rap down to reasonable sized ledge. This is the left line of bolts with a shared start.

FA: M Turnbull & S Grkovic, 1999

Airily bolted and very thin. Shared start with Rocket Girl then right line of bolts. The top out is quite exciting as there is no top belay bolt to calm your nerves before the mantle. Belay way back on the slab.

FA: S Grkovic & M Turnbull, 1999

FA: M Baker, 1995

FA: S Grkovic & A Duckworth, 1999

Cruxy crimpy start then long endurncy wall climbing. Starts on low ledge down right of Chemotherapy. The top third of this route is quite dirty but juggy and still fine to climb. Double bolt belay at top.

FA: S Grkovic & M Turnbull, 1999

Incredible thin face. Must be one of the king lines of the Bluies. Does it actually have any holds? Get on it and try! First bolted in the late 90s so it is open for anyone to try.

Set by Steve Grkovic, 1999

Good climbing and even better position. Unlike some routes around here this has closely spaced bolts suitable for the terrified. Route starts from a hanging belay halfway up the Tiger Stripe Wall. To approach it fix a 60m rope to bolts on small slab of rock about 20m back from cliff edge (this slab only two bolts on it). Rap to cliff edge and top belay bolts (the furthest left of two sets on this end of Tiger Stripe Wall). Rap down the wall to a large scoop and the bottom belay bolts that are not visible from the top.

FA: S Grkovic & M Turnbull, 1999

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