Serendipitous Walls Mostly Sport climbing13 routes in area
Did you know?
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Get directions to here using Google Maps.
A winter wonderland for experienced climbers. Long sport climbing pitches in an adventurous location, some with an abundance of pockets uncharacteristic of blueys. The rock here is soft. Climb respectfully!
Adventurous climbing on the lower walls beneath Weld Party , surrounding first two pitches of Serendipitous Cracks and east until gully. As this is a rap in/climb out area that faces north , consider going somewhere else if the temperatures are above late teens (unless there is no sun) It can be uncomfortably warm and is at its best when the temps are freezing. Strong westerlies and northerlies effect the wall , particularily Weld Party on the upper tier.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
Approach as for Bald Head until in saddle (30min). At saddles lowest point just before walking uphill break track north at a few cairns and pick up faint trail and markers contouring under rockshelves staying high-left of gully. This faint trail gradually descends and after 10 minutes passes above prominent isolated boulder and in another 150 meters you will see the valleys edge and Peirces Pass across the other side. Head down and left a few meters beside small wall where fixed lines are placed for 20 meters to aid a loose section of track. Harness up and clip into them, one person per section. Keep following the base of the cliff for 5 minutes or so to reach the obvious line of bolts for Weld Party, to climb weld party or rap in down Serendipitous Arête just past Weld Party. This also enables walking access to the rap point for the routes described in this section , and avoids the loose creek-bed approach that was used to access Serendipitous Cracks. Allow an hour for approach though if familiar this can be lessened. Although you will walk past the top of a few routes , owing to loose rock and steep approach none are suitable for abseil access and it is advised to walk to the very end of this large ledge for the very comfortable abseil down Serendipitous Arette. Please refrain from touching any gear on this ledge as a few routes are yet to be developed. There is a rap point beneath the multi pitch 'Weld Party' (described in long routes section). From base of Weld Party carefully make your way across to left side of lower wall (looking out). A few meters before cliff edge there is a small step down ledge on left, take this to find DUB rap point. This is the top of Serendipitous Arette. It is 55 meters to the ground or rethread at DUB half way.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Check out what is happening in Serendipitous Walls.