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Routes in Blackheath Area for selected grade

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mt Blackheath Area Blackheath Lookout
14 Pent Up

Start: Corner just right of access gully.

  1. 25m corner to trees

  2. 25m wide corner

FA: H. Luxford, 1985

Trad 50m
14 Sang-Froid

Start: Marked S-F Rambly grey corner.

Trad 70m
14 Wall to Wall
Trad 50m
14 Ground Zero
Trad 50m
Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall
14 No More Wolves

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

Trad
Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
14 R Honeycomb

First climb up the wall on gear before it got plastered with bolts. Start in small corner.

  1. 15m Up corner, pull onto juggy wall and climb to niche formed by flake below small overhang.

  2. 35m Traverse right to a break in overhang, up for a few moves, then up and left to a groove and follow to a large ledge. Thread and tree belay.

  3. 25m Move 3m right then up a large bushy ledge - tree belay.

FA: R.Lassman & K.Bell, 1972

Trad 75m, 3
Mt Boyce Abseil Gully
14 Loitering With Intent
1 25m
2 14 35m
3 14 40m
4 9 25m

Traverse.

Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1985

Trad 130m, 4
14 Set, Piece, Battle

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

  1. 20m 2 bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (6 bolts).

FA: A.Penney, P.Martland & J.Smoothy, 1985

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 8
Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
14 R Afghan Wall

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967

Mixed trad 63m, 2, 4
14 R Aussie Apricot

Traverse!

Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1979

Trad 110m
14 M4 The Groper

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams & R.Vining, 2000

Trad 70m, 3
Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
14 Baby Carrots

Approach the top of Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free, spot two carrots at ground level and scramble down 2m to U bolts. Rap from these and redirect ropes through the large stainless steel hook to maintain the arete to a semi-hanging double ring belay, well off the deck. Committing crux off the belay leads to many glue in carrots to top. Bring 12 brackets.

FA: Roger Bourne

Sport 35m, 10
14 Little Johnny

Right of air 2 spare on carrots

FA: 2007

Sport 30m
14 Manx

Start as for VHRD.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and ramp to ledge.

  3. 24m (14) 2nd crack from the right to gully and out.

FA: B.Postill & P.Edwards, 1972

Trad 64m, 3
14 Bonnieville

Start: First pitch as for Manx.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and groove (keeping away from Manx). Left to high ledge.

  3. 24m (14) Crack to top.

FA: G.Wurth & B.Postill, 1972

Trad 64m, 3
Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully
14 Roughly Yours

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: G.Wurth & J.Wurth, 1972

Trad 61m
14 Gently Mine
  1. 20m (14) Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

  2. 30m Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

FA: L Smith & W Williams

Trad 50m, 2
14 Snoopy

Marked S.

  1. 18m

  2. 15m

  3. 30m

Trad 64m
14 Schroeder
Trad 90m
14 El Cid
Trad 100m
14 El Zorro
Trad 57m
14 M2 Rodney
Aid 60m
14 Phillip's Climb
Trad 55m
Mt Boyce Crevasse Gully
14 Sandy Hollow
Trad 55m
14 Halfway House
Trad 17m
Hat Hill Crag
14 World's Worst Woute

The things people climb to get their ropes up on better things. The ugly and vegetated corner left of Dinosaur Train.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2013

Trad 15m

Showing all 26 routes.

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