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The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

15m past the descent rungs.

This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish..

Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Sustained wall heading out left from the vegetated corner. Lots of tricky moves, usually involving tiny footholds! Shares the same first bolt and anchor with with Click Bait.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 27 Mar 2011

Thin face left of the vegetated corner. A bit different to most of the steep thug fests around this part of the world.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 25 Mar 2011

Featured orange face just right of vegetated corner. Reachy move at 2nd bolt and tricky slopers to finish. A great warmup link-up is to climb Yellow Fever for two bolts then go left into this route - grade 21.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 12 Mar 2011

Steep orange wall of bomber rock with two distinct cruxes. 'Fantastic' rock shapes.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

Another good steep orange line. A one move wonder on thin holds, the rest is juggy steep fun. Might be grade 24 if you can crimp?

FFA: Simon Foxhill

Hard start and even harder arete finish. Very impressive and inspiring line.

FFA: Anthony Savage

Face on the right side of the arete with a roof flake start and bizarre vertical ironstone fin at finish (treat this with caution or the climb will go up a few grades!) Extend 3rd draw to stop rope drag.

FFA: Neil Monteith

Looks impressive! 10m right at big roof. Straight through the ceiling and up the wall above. Should be a classic if simon ever gets back here to tick it.

FFA: Simon Foxhill


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