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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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anon

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Table of contents

1. Right Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
Seasonality
All Sport climbing
Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Checkout Chimp / Show Me the Money

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

29 Sport 22m, 9
2 Grease Moneky / Glue Ain't Cheap

Bouldery start for sure, make sure your fingers are warmed up for the opening pockets. The climbing easies off after the third bolt but the redpoint crux is still up there.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

26 Sport 20m, 7
3 Venissieux / Need to Sharpen My Saw

Long and pumpy, a few fun traverse moves. Intimidating if 23 is your limit.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

23 Sport 23m, 9
4 Barbie Boys

JUst to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

FA: S Grkovic

25 Sport 20m, 9
5 Barefoot and Pregnant

Just right of 'BBQ Boys' up ironstone rib feature. Wanders around a bit and has some tricky slopers in the middle. Great sustained climbing.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

26 Sport 20m, 9
6 Automobiles as Personality and Ego Substitutes

Hyper classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

25 Sport 19m, 8
7 Boris the Blade

A bit scary. The left trending line sharing the same start of 'Wife Beater'. Rough rock and runout.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

24 Sport 16m, 7
8 Wife Beater

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

FFA: Anthony Savage

25 Sport 17m, 5
9 All The Way May

Big left facing flake feature with a hard last move. Rock quality isn't great.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

22 Sport 11m, 5
10 Rottwelier / Terms Of Trade

Crazy adventure all the way to the top of the cliff through a sea of choss. Lucky there is lots of bolts! You will need some long draws to cut down on the rope drag.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

24 Sport 30m, 13
11 Mr Ed

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - however it's not pretty. Big sandy horizontals.

FFA: Ed Rutherford

19 Sport 14m, 6
12 The Original Bogan

The technical extension to Mr Ed.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

21 Sport 20m, 9

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 Mr Ed Sport 14m, 6
21 The Original Bogan Sport 20m, 9
22 All The Way May Sport 11m, 5
23 Venissieux Sport 23m, 9
24 Boris the Blade Sport 16m, 7
Rottwelier Sport 30m, 13
25 Automobiles as Personality and Ego Substitutes Sport 19m, 8
Barbie Boys Sport 20m, 9
Wife Beater Sport 17m, 5
26 Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 20m, 9
Grease Moneky Sport 20m, 7
29 Checkout Chimp Sport 22m, 9