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Main Wall (Ferris Cave)

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

Sharp jugs.

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall. Traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness.

FA: S.Bell & C.Vandereydt, 1995

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

Start at the same first bolt as 'Sprouts Mexicane' then up and left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: M.Baker, 1992

A harder and bolder left finish to Euchre. The run out to the anchor is exciting. Still a bit mossy but at least it is new bolts now.

FA: L.Trihey & J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Better warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. Still on the right as it swings you away from tree when cleaning. Same biners. Just surface rust. Feel free to donate coldshuts as I have done on Grapehour.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Classic pumper in the middle of the wall - get a ticket and get in line. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

FA: Mike Law, 1994

Start up 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. It's advisable to bring a small-med cam, or a boltplate to clip the carrot, so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

Grey Power into Aneurysm crux avoiding easy jugs at Aneurysm anchors blasting straight right after crux into sloping rail rest and finishing up onions extension final crux.

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt go straight up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

New start into Aneurysm. If you traverse left into "Grey Power" to avoid the top crux you've done "Spray Power" at about grade 25. Straight up is the way to go.

FA: Stuart Simons, 2017

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead. Rebolted 28-03-19

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

1
2 26

Communal start to fourth perma draw then trend left, straight up and back right to anchors. This used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

Start 3 meters left of the shared start. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Anuerysm then straight up into onions. Hopefully frees the main start up a bit.

FA: Stuart Simons, 30 Sep 2017

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

New start into "Mudeye" but finish direct Via the Onion's extension bolt. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the main start is under siege.

FA: Stuart Simons, 2017

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find.

Inalee Jahn

FA: S.Johns, 1993

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

Traverse. Back jump to clean. Beware of hitting the tree if falling or jumping from the anchor!

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals! The draws have been left on it for at least 5 years, so its probably fair to say the project is open and the draws are booty.

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Up Big Wednesday then right and up. (is this a project - or does it have a grade?)

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Cross the gully to find a few more bolted routes on the right side. This section of wall is entirely south facing - all day shade.

Short steep wall 10m left of offal. Brutal bouldering to a nice span and easy finish.

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Roman Hoffman, Jan 2017

A solid 23. Located 80m right of Big Wednesday. Rebolted 2018 thanks to Kip for the bolts. Stickclip first u bolt and also use draw on mallion to keep rope and belayer in a nice place. Very chossy and hard moving past first bolt. The difficulties continue until eventually settled in corner. From there on up good climbing on dirty rock. If everybody brushes something it should clean up nicely.

FFA: Mikl Law, 1883

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday. Very high stickclip then traverse in from right and across to big ledge. Consider a sling on first bolt otherwise noticeable ropedrag. Up to second bolt with care then good sustained climbing to loweroff. Rebolted with U-Bolts courtesy of Kip. December 2018.

FFA: Mike Stacey, 1991

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