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Alphabet Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 23

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

March 2020 - many climbing crags and campgrounds in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Pierces Pass, Dam Cliffs, Mt York, Bardens, parts of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

Some public campgrounds are closed - including Mt York & Perrys Lookdown.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 20 days ago
8

Seasonality

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Description

A rarely visited east facing sport crag that seems to have disappeared in recent additions of the Simon Carter print guide. The approach track is not clearly defined. The wall gets morning sun and arvo shade.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

This little wall is 150m east of the main Boronia point crag. Find the faint (non existent?) trail leading off right (going downhill) about 30m before you reach the cliff band. Follow the trail to a rock platform. The West Side wall is approached by scrambling down and around to your right (looking out) and the East Side is approached by scrambling down a small gully to the left of the platform.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes described left to right

Top rope route off ringbolt and chain anchor on top of cliff. Climb impermanent jugs left of Battery Chicken.

Left side of wall - shared start with Pixie Drink.

FA: P Martin, 1994

Shared start with Battery Chicken then right line.

FA: P Martin, 1994

FA: P Martin

Far right route on wall - written up as 25m but old topo show it the same height as nearby routes (15m)

FA: Saxon Johns, 1994

Routes described left to right. All routes share the same start.

Left route off shared start

FA: P Martin, 1994

Middle route

FA: S Bell, 1994

Right route

FA: P Martin, 1994

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