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Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Overall the cliffs have seen very little affect from the bushfires. However, the approach has been heavily burned out and care needs to be taken when walking in.

The track down from the carpark is marked with small cairns and pink tape. At the base of the hill cross the bog/marsh via the log bridge and follow the path up to the road.

Please only descend to the cliffs via the Memory Lane walkdown gully as the first gully is extremely loose and at high risk of erosion.

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 weeks ago - Edited 29 days ago

Description

Up corner briefly, right to flake, up and right at finish.

Start: 2m right of TACN.

© (mjw)

Route history

1981First Ascent: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy

Warnings

17 May 2020 Warning Access: Cosmic County access after the bushfires.

Location

Lat/Long: -33.50065, 150.22658

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

20 Assigned grade
20 Blue Mountains Climbing
20 * ACA Route Register
20 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Cosmic County
20 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 56% from 8 ratings

Tick Types

Onsight 6
Tick 4
Second 3

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