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Description

A great collection of moderate sport routes in a spectacular setting. This is the most popular wall in in the Celebrity Crags region by a country mile. The entire wall was re-bolted in 2017 so ignore stories of horror bolts. The first four routes get sun from about 1pm, but the other three routes are 10m further right amongst the trees, and are well shaded by the foliage all afternoon.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

Bushwalkers share this area so be friendly and don't leave your climbing stuff on the walking track.

Approach

To get to Jimmy Cliff follow the walker's trail across the creek (ignore the "lost climbers" trail which stays on the left/south side of the creek, the first bit is muddy and sketchy), walk downstream beneath Rock Hudson for 30m, then leave the bushwalkers' trail and cross back over to the left/south side of the creek. The climbers' path leads another 30m downstream to the ledge/slot/crawl. Walk carefully around the path and to the left via a narrow cut-out ledge. Given the height of the drop below, it's worth taking your pack off so it doesn't hit the roof of the low slot and throw you off balance. There is a ringbolt at each end to allow you to set up a 10m safety line if you wish.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-off anchors and a 50m rope is fine.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Far left route, starting halfway along the approach traverse. Belay off U-bolt and stick-clip first bolt. Rebolted 2017.

FA: J. Clark, 1995

Shared start with JJ then left. Rebolted 2017.

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017.

FA: C. Hale, 1995

A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall. Rebolted 2017.

FA: C. Hale, 1995

Just to the right of the tree growing against the cliff. Rebolted 2017.

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

Middle of the right three routes. Nice and shady all day and some cool ironstone features. Rebolted 2017.

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

Good fun with as short section of thinness up high. Reach helps. Rebolted 2017.

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

Activity

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