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East facing wall with two overgrown sport routes and potentially dangerous bolts. Despite being described in at least three print guidebooks, none has ever identified which is which of the two routes here, so be warned that the topo here is an educated guess.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

Bushwalkers share this area so be friendly and don't leave your climbing stuff on the walking track.


Follow cliffline left from Nick Cave around into a shady gully, on the far side walk left along cliff base for a short distance and try and spot the bolts above thick fernery on a higher ledge.

Descent notes


Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Warning - "Bolted with questionable gear" 1998 Pircher Guidebook

FA: S. Steward, 1995

Warning - "Bolted with questionable gear" 1998 Pircher Guidebook

FA: S. Steward, 1995


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