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Sharon Stone

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

March 2020 - many climbing crags and campgrounds in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Pierces Pass, Dam Cliffs, Mt York, Bardens, parts of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

Some public campgrounds are closed - including Mt York & Perrys Lookdown.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 19 days ago
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Description

The east facing orange wall seen as you walk down the tourist track to Celebrity Crags. Gets morning sun and arvo shade.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

Bushwalkers share this area so be friendly and don't leave your climbing stuff on the walking track.

Approach

From Cliff Richard continue following the cliffline left, scrambling down a bit of a rock step, then into another hidden gully (Slim Shady). On the far side of this gully follow cliffline left and out of the jungle into the sun and the wall proper. It's about an 8 min walk/scramble from the tourist track.

Descent notes

Lower-offs

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Set by lloyd wishart

FA: lloyd wishart, 15 Sep 2019

Was partially bolted, abandoned, and now cleaned up 20 years later. 3m R of Basic Instinct, up the slab past two rings onto the diving board. Very carefully up Corner, then out left to the arete. Continue up the right side of this with increasingly interesting moves. Hand traverse the holdless rising ramp, where a few more pulls will see you on the headwall with pleasant edges leading to the anchor.

Set by Frey Yule & Lee Cujes

FFA: Lee Cujes & @1293, 14 Apr 2019

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 14 Apr 2019

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 22 Mar

The next three routes require some planning to avoid rope drag on the headwall. Most climbers find the best approach is to climb the start boulder problem(s) to the ledge, clip the bolt above and make themselves safe on the ledge, pull the rope through the first few bolts, then drop the rope back down and get back on belay with two bolts clipped, and no drag. The judicious use of some longer draws on the middle sections of the routes will also help.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Jun 2019

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 13 Sep 2019

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 1 Sep 2019

3m L of TS. This boulder problem on a rope climbs through the distinctive hole in the roof before getting to grips with some very small holds. Very hard to grade as the key move is a long reach - span will affect difficulty. Climbed with first two bolts clipped.

FA: Lee Cujes, 27 Oct 2019

same batman start as SVASR heading right

Batman start. Long and varied with a sting in the tail. Popular!

Set by lloyd wishart, 2017

FFA: lloyd wishart, 1 Mar 2019

Shared first bolt with Beaver Shot then the right line of bolts. Finishes a little lower than most routes on this wall under big roof. Scary hard move to reach the anchors - can be done both left and right ways. The extension does go for whoever is keen.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 15 Feb 2019

Another bouldery start past flake. Up the wall to a confounding section under the roof. Breach the roof, then directly up to anchors.

Set by lloyd wishart, 2017

FA: lloyd wishart, 18 Feb 2018

Start off cairn with committing move, then pumpy steep climbing to left set of anchors on the slab directly above last bolt.

Set by lloyd wishart, 2017

FA: lloyd wishart, 12 Dec 2017

Start at the left end of the wall and smile all the way. Both juggy and pumpy.

FA: lloyd wishart, 10 Feb 2018

Far left end of wall is a steep crack - with a rusty piton down low (1980s?). No further info known.

Start at very left end of crag on top of big starting block. Up corner and slabs then through roof and up wall to anchors. Enjoy the exposure!

FFA: lloyd wishart, 7 Apr 2019

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