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Description

The section of 80m high cliff line 50m south and below the main Celebrity Crag areas - and 400m north of The Birdcage.

Access issues inherited from Celebrity Crags

Bushwalkers share this area so be friendly and don't leave your climbing stuff on the walking track.

Approach

Follow the tourist track downwards from the main Celebrity Crags' areas until it bottoms out and starts heading south past a wet section of rock and along the base of the big cliffs. About 50m along this flat section the track squeezes through a narrow rock slot. The Devil's Work starts just before this slot, underneath a big section of roofs.

Descent notes

From cliff top walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

History

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Any old routes in this area? Please add them if you know more!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 19 40m
2 2 7m
3 20 15m
4 19 30m

Quite the traversity. An airy steep multi-pitch sport route which stays in the shade until 2pm. Due to the tourist track running underneath this route keep an eye on knocking off loose rock and avoid doing the route in the middle of the day on weekends or during holiday periods (xmas/easter etc). The first pitch can be done by itself and is choss free. Bring 16 draws and a couple of single length runners.

  1. 40m 19 Slab up the wall with a left trend to the big horizontal break underneath the huge roof. Scuttle hard left for 15m then finish up nice purple face. Pull on the hanging short rope to avoid an unpleasant mantle onto the shale ledge. 14 bolts. You can bail left from here by walking off along ledge and around to tourist track.

  2. 7m 2 Crawl right along shale slot to large ledge belay. There is a fixed rope across this currently. Belay off single bolt and low first lead bolt on next pitch.

  3. 15m 20 Steep wall and slabby corner to sweet ledge belay. 6 bolts.

  4. 30m 19 Right and up steep wall with sections of shale and looseness. Be very careful not to knock anything off onto track below. 9 bolts. Belay on top of cliff (no rap back down possible from top). To exit walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Devil's Work Wall.