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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

The chalk at the start says 32, but the guidebook says 33. Batman start. Use rollers/extenders and skip the 5th or 6th bolt, so that rope drag doesn't make the crux easier!

Set by P Sage, 2000

FFA: Ben Cossey, 2014

Rebolted 2004. A great climb! There is a slight right hand variant that avoids the crux and the best moves which is referred to as Dirty Linen, 26.

FA: M. Baker & K. Carrigan, 1992

Warning - the first bolt fell out of this route (2007?) and the fall resulted in a broken back. The other bolts have not been replaced - the current first bolt is a long stick clip and is positioned upside down in a roof. It hasn't fallen out - yet. The route however has some very good moves, marred by the hanging swamp at the start and soft dirty rock.

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26, maybe still is. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts. Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of White Linen.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

Hard stuff. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh then break left.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

The last route at the far left end of White Linen Wall, only about 10m to the right of Jaws on Wave Wall.

FA: M. Law, 1995


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