Help

Delmonte Crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 63
  • Aka: DG's

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Several short walls and caves with nice views down into the Megalong + one rap in climb out multi trad route.

Description

Some of the info described here is a bit of an educated guess, as several routes were not written up when first done. The topos may be inaccurate - if you know better please fix them! All bolts are stainless, but some are hot bent so look black.

Access issues

Private Property. Take care, don't get climbing banned.

Approach

As this crag sees almost no traffic, there is no established track to the cliff. Expect a (short) but vigorous bushbash. Go to end of Delmonte Drive, and then bash down the hill to the crag (crossing a walking track about halfway down) . It's a bit tricky the first time, but once you know the way, it takes about 15 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

On the northern side of the descent track gully. This wall faces south west so remains in the shade until 2pm.

Worst route on this wall - not worth a star. Shared start with Calm My Beating Heart for a couple of bolts then traverse left onto the arete. There is a fair bit of loose rock and scary clips with multiple ledges to hit if you fall off.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

Great climbing with some lovely water polished rock down low. The unique pillar stuck onto the cliff near the end of this route looks and feels a bit sketchy but hasn't fallen off yet.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

Sustained thin climbing up the guts of the wall. Start as for first bolt of Wee Dram then traverse left and straight up wall.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

Heaps of cool featured holds. Stickclip then start steeply and confidently way left.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2003

The wall of polished orange rock, covered in bolts, located between two large cave sections just south of the descent gully. Sun after 10 am. Routes were never written up by first ascentists so this info is missing names and grades are from repeat ascents.

Left route starting up seam crack feature with bouldery undercut start. Faded "24" written in chalk at the start is probably the official grade.

Best of these vertical routes. A good pump! Bouldery subtle arete start then easier but still excellent orange wall to finish.

Same arete start as for Mystery Route 2, then take the right line of bolts that climbs over the lip of the cave. Very questionable rock in the upper section and pretty silly anchor placement.

Up the wall 2m right of Mystery Route 2 under the roof past one high RB then left across break on trad (#5 cam) to join up with bolts on Mystery Route 3.

Orange cave just right of the Northern Wall.

First of the steep roof routes about 5m right of the vertical orange wall. Maybe 27? Bolted in 2010ish?

Set by chris coghill

Traverse the horizontal crack rightwards under the roof to lower offs. All trad.

FA: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

Short steep route starting on giant rock cairn. Finishes at shared anchors with the Mad Taffy Traverse?

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

Major steep route in the middle of the cave, steep gymnastic moves to a short crimpy headwall. Be careful clipping the 3rd bolt, FA was done with the 3rd clipped.

Set by chris coghill

FA: Jason McCarthy, 13 Apr

Closed Project. Between Angiotensin and MPW.

Intense and athletic blast through much steepness. Pronounced crux at second bolt took many shots before hold was dry and heel stayed put. Consider bringing a small blowtorch if its not windy. Stick clip first two ubolts in roof. A small belay bolt keeps rope out of the way also.

FFA: Hurok Daparti

Last the roof routes on the right edge of the cave. Not a bad climb, the two mallions on 6th bolt are to protect your biner from breaking. The biner is booty, even better, pop it on the single bolt anchor. Backclean . Top seeps after rain.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2004

Ringbolted fused corner on right side of cave. Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

Contrived squeeze job up the vague arete forming the right side of Chainsaw's corner. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement.

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

Starts 2m right of Chainsaw Juggler on overgrown slope. Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second. Possibly uses lower-off anchors on Chainsawe Juggler?

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Easy trad route up juggy wall 10m right of Chainsaw Juggler.

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

This 60m high overhung wall is located directly BELOW the left end of Delmonte Cave. Scramble down hillside to cliff edge. Find tree near edge - fix a 60m rope and rap to ground.

Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.

  1. 18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)

  2. 13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.

  3. 25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.

20m around the corner from the Delmonte Cave is this orange wall with 4 bolted routes.

Far left route starting off small high ledge (scramble up to this). Name and grade may not be correct.

FA: Ian Geatches, 2003

Easy scramble up to orange wall left of grey streak. Name and grade may not be correct.

FA: 2003

The grey streak that seeps after rain. Ian wrote "A bit to much catalyst in the megapoxy for the anchors, so a third bolt was added. Will get around to cleaning this up. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good."

FA: Ian Geatches, 2005

One of the best routes here. Right trending orange flake feature. Easier than 24 unless you contrive it.

FA: Josh Dodson, 2004

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Delmonte Crag.