Worst route on this wall - not worth a star. Shared start with Calm My Beating Heart for a couple of bolts then traverse left onto the arete. There is a fair bit of loose rock and scary clips with multiple ledges to hit if you fall off.
Great climbing with some lovely water polished rock down low. The unique pillar stuck onto the cliff near the end of this route looks and feels a bit sketchy but hasn't fallen off yet.
Best of these vertical routes. A good pump! Bouldery subtle arete start then easier but still excellent orange wall to finish. Was put up before the next route, graded 22 on first ascent.
Up the wall 2m right of Mystery Route 2 under the roof past one high RB then left across break on trad (#5 cam) to join up with bolts on Mystery Route 3.
Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.
18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)
13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.
25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.
