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Description

The Landlide Face

Routes listed right to left.

Start are mostly marked.

© (Macciza)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Hand Crack

Free at 26

Start: Main corner/crack system on left side wall. Good rock and climbing down low, becoming more serious and difficult towards the top.

FFA: - Monks/Mentz

FA: Ewbanks & Campbell

First new aid route on this cliff in decades. Tricky aid on variable rock. Maybe a tad dangerous. Be careful! Further pitches could be 'fun' also.

Start: Start of the ridge in middle of main wall at thin seam.

  1. 25m (- M7) Tricky nailing up thin arcing seam and one decent dyna, past bad belay (don't stop, don't collect $200), left to hook moves and up to good thin clay band. Piton and ?bolt? belay. Wide range of pitons (rurps to angles) etc needed. And some small wires/rps or offsets. . Project - continuation to reach Collossus ledge belay.

  2. -m (- M6) Easily up corner / crack system from main belay on Collossus - past traverse line and up to second rooflet. Pop out onto face on small pinsand up via medium pecker past loose cracks/blocks to good pin- high point. 'Open Project'. Continue to top - probably need long rope.

Removed from 2015 BM guide because Simone Cartier got her knickers in a knot ...

FA: Macciza (Aid Solo), 2005

Up slanting crack for 50m. Up to 10m pin traverse along clay band then up to roof below lookout. Through roof and up to lookout. If your into aid you cant get lost.

Start: Slanting crack in the middle of 'Main Wall'.

  1. -m Start between pillars, up groove and into the crack. Belay at obvious foot ledge. (23 or M3)

  2. -m Long slanting crack, with cruxy finish, to alcove ledge. (26 or M5)

  3. -m Up short corner to reposition belay to eyrie ledge above. (- 18 or M2)

  4. -m Up corner to traverse clay band on stacked pins then up via bolt and piton to ledge. Original bivy on right. Free variant avoids pin traverse by continuing up corner to top then exposed traverse to gain belay ledge. (- M6)

  5. -m Left past 2 bolts to crux getting into left facing corner/ramp. Easily up it to top then pull onto shaley ledge (25?- M6)

  6. -m Left onto large block then up through steepness, turn the lip and up final slab with lots of poor bolts.(24?- M5)

FA: Ewbank/Giles, 1969

The original bolt route on the wall - c. 1965, chopped 1967, reclimbed 2005.

Take lot's of peckers and various hooks, leave them in the hope they'll catch you if you fall - then just don't fall! I actually had my bivvy almost below me for psych support

Start: Few metres left of Gigantors start at some barely noticeable chopped bolts beneath the line of even less noticeable chopped bolts.

Pecker Extension Project underway.

Removed from 2015 BM guide because Simone Cartier got her knickers in a knot ...

FA: Macciza (Aid Solo), 2005

Cliff Splitter. Classic. Trade aid route - goes clean ie no pins, some hooking.

As a free route (26R/28+)it has a bit of everything - Jamming from armbars to pinkys, pockets and the occasional edge. Some loose rock and the occasional runout. Belays are all ok, just equalise everything you can see. Atmospheric and extremely engaging! Don't even think of rebolting this one!!

Start: Few metres right of BaseCamp either traverse in or boulder the shaley bit

FFA: Zac & Mac

FA: Ewbank/Campbell, 2005

Rap in and climb out on worriesome metal in worrisome rock with worrisome air. Absolutely awesome - come on, step up . .

'Excellent' engaging rope solo . .

Start: Head south fro, lookout down track in gully to chain on block several metres from cliff edge. Rap in past lots of fixed stuff to belay in middle of wall,

FA: Claw, 2000

Up through shockingly lose shale to the base of the wall proper. Switch gears and arc up and right on drilled holes to tatters of primitive lower-off and pendulum to the (now dead) tree belay at base of corner on right side of wall. Up corner to top. Perhaps dry tooling would be better . . .

FA: Ewbank

Wide crack cruxy start near the coffin cave gets you to a good cave ledge. Pop up onto the main face and up and around arete. Up grey slab above.

FFA: Matheson/Mentz

FA: FA Ewbank, Tyrell, FFA Matheson & Mentz

Activity

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