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River Blocs

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 3

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Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Lovely traverse of the boulder at low level from left to right and right to left if you like. Prob not a first ascent

FA: David Haines, 4 Aug 2019

avoiding large holds off two crimpers to Pocket and Jugs - sit down start

FA: David Haines, 4 Aug 2019

Right hand end of the boulder up as you will

FA: David Haines, 4 Aug 2019

Left-hand knife-edge under vertical arete with commitment.

The first problem on the LHS of the Sprat Boulder - over shallow water, take care

traverse out to the middle of the boulder and layaway up the slab with increasing commitment - possibly soft - but not one to fall off of.

Easy traverse in from left, over water then up the left-hand side on good holds and easing angle to mantle top out - Easy fun but if you fall off you get turned into a sprat by the magical waters of Glenbrook Creek.

From the right-hand side of boulder traverse over water, under arete and up

The right-hand face of boulder - requires a pad to avoid a nasty rock or a plonk in the drink - stabbing high step to snatchy layaway mantle and then straight up Matterhorn feature - an excellent problem.

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