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Grace Gully

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

June 2020 - some climbing crags in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20. All campgrounds are closed during Covid-19 restrictions and some are also damaged from bushfires and will be closed in the medium term.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Mt York, Bellbird Wall and most of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited about a day ago
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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy shady line on left edge of cliff. Looks dirty but climbs ok.

FA: D.Geiger, 2002

First route you come to on the main wall.

FA: M Baker & A Farquhar, 11 Apr 2013

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker & J. Jobling, 1991

Was originally graded 26 - but seems to have settled at 25 in the recent print guide.

FA: G.Henderson, 2002

Thin wall to under roof then right and up bouldery finish. Stickclip first bolt recommended.

FA: M. Baker & W. Baird, 1991

Classic sustained technical arete. Start as for Mogmbo for a bolt then traverse right boldly and up the arete.

FA: J. Smoothy., 1988

Right side of Grace arete. Bouldery moves to get started!

FA: Glen Henderson, 2004

The first ascentist wrote this in 2019 "I removed all the bolts today as Requiem For A Whippet has only had a couple of ascents since I bolted it 21 years ago and as there are far really too many infrequently climbed average routes in the BM’s, I feel the blank rock is more aesthetic than the bolted version. This is the beginning of unbolting of my routes that are unrepeated or only occasionally repeated. Any of my routes that are fairly popular or that someone has made the effort to rebolt will be left."

FA: A.Farquar, 1998

Before doing this be aware that 2 bolts are in a large flake of questionable permanence.

FA: M.Spring, 1999

FA: D.Taylor, 1999

Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine!

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

Bouldery start around the arete from 'Grace'.

FA: G.Henderson, 2004

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Activity

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