A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Angus Farquhar Kyle Dunsire Lee Cujes Ben Hanley Nick Clow Edwin Emmerick Jared Tyerman Campbell Gome M.Warren Rohan Charles Tayler
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Grace Gully 16 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Grace Gully 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.583510, 150.239493
summary
A short, crimpy sport climbing crag with probably the shortest access of the entire blue mountains. Great morning shade.
access issues
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
approach
Park opposite the Mitchell’s Ridge lookout hut. Take the track down the gully to the left of the lookout, and follow the wooden stairs directly to the base of the cliff.
60 seconds from car to cliff.
ethic
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Oh! Shut up!
Easy shady line on left edge of cliff. Looks dirty but climbs ok. FA: D.Geiger, 2002 | 20 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★★ Welcome To The Borzoi
First route you come to on the main wall. FA: M Baker & A Farquhar, 2013 | 25 | 15m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★ Slave to the Rhythm
Rebolted 2004 FA: M. Baker & J. Jobling, 1991 | 25 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Codeine
Was originally graded 26 - but seems to have settled at 25 in the recent print guide. FA: G.Henderson, 2002 | 25 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Mogambo
Thin wall to under roof then right and up bouldery finish. Stickclip first bolt recommended. FA: M. Baker & W. Baird, 1991 | 24 | 16m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Grace
Classic sustained technical arete. Start as for Mogmbo for a bolt then traverse right boldly and up the arete. FA: J. Smoothy., 1988 | 26 | 16m | |||||
7 |
Unnamed
Right side of Grace arete. Bouldery moves to get started! FA: Glen Henderson, 2004 | 27 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★ Unbolted 1 / Requiem For A Whippet
The first ascentist wrote this in 2019 "I removed all the bolts today as Requiem For A Whippet has only had a couple of ascents since I bolted it 21 years ago and as there are far really too many infrequently climbed average routes in the BM’s, I feel the blank rock is more aesthetic than the bolted version. This is the beginning of unbolting of my routes that are unrepeated or only occasionally repeated. Any of my routes that are fairly popular or that someone has made the effort to rebolt will be left." FA: A.Farquar, 1998 | 25 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Will it Stay?
Before doing this be aware that 2 bolts are in a large flake of questionable permanence. FA: M.Spring, 1999 | 23 | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ The Jam Nazi
FA: D.Taylor, 1999 | 23 | 12m | |||||
11 | Open Project | project | ||||||
12 |
The Missing Man
Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain. FA: F.Yule, 1995 | 25 | 15m | |||||
13 |
Introversion
Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain. FA: G.Henderson, 2000 | 26 | 15m | |||||
14 |
★★ Glucosamine
Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone. FA: G.Henderson, 2000 | 25 | 15m | |||||
15 |
Pethadine
Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up. FA: G.Henderson, 2000 | 24 | 15m | |||||
16 |
Morphine
Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine! FA: G.Henderson, 2000 | 25 | 15m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | Oh! Shut up! | 15m | |||
23 | ★ | The Jam Nazi | 12m | ||
★ | Will it Stay? | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ | Mogambo | 16m | ||
Pethadine | 15m | ||||
25 | ★★ | Codeine | 15m | ||
★★ | Glucosamine | 15m | |||
Morphine | 15m | ||||
★ | Slave to the Rhythm | 15m | |||
The Missing Man | 15m | ||||
★★ | Unbolted 1 | 20m | |||
★★ | Welcome To The Borzoi | 15m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★★ | Grace | 16m | ||
Introversion | 15m | ||||
27 | Unnamed | 15m | |||
project | Open Project |