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Due south of Odins Head - Baldur was the Son of Odin.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Access as for Odin's Head - Drive 1.6km along Victoria Falls Road. Park at a little turn off on the right.The route follows an old fire trail which can clearly be seen in the ariel photo. Fallen logs have been placed along the entire length of the fire trail. From the carpark follow fire trail east, at first turnoff take the right hand branch (currently large cairn marking this trail). Continue down slight slope to swampy clearing with views north to the Grose valley, up slight slope. At the next intersection take the left branch and after just over a kilometre from the car park continue straight (East) at the 3rd intersection, GR 482 803 (Using Mt Wilson topo third edition) and follow to its end at GR 486 802 . Now head north and then North East and pass through two discrete saddles to the top of 3/4 Crack at GR 487 803. Rap from tree atop of 3/4 Crack to base otherwise you can walk to the base of the cliff via gully at GR 485 804

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Grade Route

Short corner, only done as a warm up for 3/4 crack. Climb gingerly through shale - consider placing cam with a long stick to protect move, up nice but short corner to tree belay.

FA: Marty Doolan, Hugh Ward & Alex Forwell, 16 Feb

Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA.

FA: Hugh Ward, Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 16 Feb


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