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Description

Few routes have been done here and most of them are a bit more serious than the ones on the upper level. Routes are listed left to right facing the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Radiata Plateau

The vast majority of crags in this area are actually located on private property, and climbers access could be revoked at any time. There is an active community campaign to stop any housing development and make this public land. Be friendly and courteous to any non-climbers you see on the plateau - they could be the owners!

Approach

Scramble (roped) down gully below the Fabslab wall to anchor. Its approx. a 60m rap from here to the ground or you can re-thread with a 60m rope at the large angophora on the ledge below.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 18
2 19

A good corner system with excellent climbing up a steep crack.

From the bottom of the access abseil, walk left facing the cliff for approx. 200m until you reach the obvious fused, clean corner with a hanging corner above.

  1. 18m (18) Up fused corner with pockets then into crack and over bulges to belay ledge. Bolt, piton and cam belay.

  2. 32m (19) Up a few metres then left over small roof and into steep finger/knuckle corner crack. Follow this system up to a stance. From here avoid the top vegetated corner by climbing the nose and wall to the right of the corner which is easy climbing on good rock. Climb up to tree belay and then do a roped scramble back to main area track.

FA: G Narkowicz, J Narkowicz, B Cameron & BE Cameron, 15 Apr 2016

A great finger crack followed by an awesome 35m slab.

Climb the crack and line of bolts that follows the same line as the access abseil. Take 8 bolt plates.

  1. 20m (14) Hard start to gain easier finger crack up slab/wall. Belay off angophora tree.

  2. 35m (15) Gain slab just off big ledge. Follow BR's and small cams to a short head wall. Continue following BR's up right to the main rap/belay anchor. A great pitch.

  3. 10m Roped scramble back up to main ledge.

FA: Bruce Cameron & Brad Cameron, 26 May 2017

1 19
2 15
3 15

A good climb with a rad first pitch followed by some gripping and adventurous but less inspiring easy climbing.

Facing the cliff, walk around to the right from the abseil point until you get to an awesome finger crack up an orange corner with an undercut start.

  1. 25m (19) Up finger crack with small gear to juggy slab. Climb the slab up past the first big ledge to cam and sapling belay.

  2. 25m (15) Follow slab up past committing undercut move, deviating slightly left on to the orange wall before traversing right to belay in the gully.

  3. 30m (15) Head left and continue up mostly easy slab, passing one hard move and into some slightly rotten rock to top out. One large cam and two slings.

FA: Will Vidler & Brad Cameron, 7 Oct 2017

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