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Access issues inherited from Radiata Plateau

The vast majority of crags in this area are actually located on private property, and climbers access could be revoked at any time. There is an active community campaign to stop any housing development and make this public land. Be friendly and courteous to any non-climbers you see on the plateau - they could be the owners!

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


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Grade Route

Much better than it looks. Great route for beginners to top rope.

Start: Up orange wall through grey slab. 4 carrots to DRLO.

FA: Ben Sanford, 19 Aug 2015

The name says it all, this route is actually fun, but needs another bolt between the 2nd and third, otherwise theres about a 5m run out on easy ground.

A weakness/thin crack in the grey wall 5 metres left of FM. Up crack and wall tending R. Up black wall to R to DBB.

FA: B Cameron & H Luxford, 27 Aug 2013

Pockets/seam and black wall on good rock. Up pockets/seam 2 RBs, over bulge RB, up black wall, FH to DFLO as for ETJ.

Start: 4m R of ETJ at thin crack and pockets.

FA: B & BE Cameron, 2014

A nice wall climb, better and harder than it looks. Up wall passing 4 BR and FH through top bulge to DFLO at very top of cliff.

Start: 6 M R of Fibro Majestic.

FA: BE & B Cameron, 9 Aug 2015

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams

Set by Bruce Cameron

FA: Bruce Cameron & Harry Luxford

A little bit dirty... but a good little route. Start 2m right of 80 Great Years. Climb the rounded outer edge of the grey wall to 80 GY anchors. Spaced small/medium cams and thread.

FA: Brad Cameron & Bruce Cameron, 12 Mar

Pleasant climbing on a hanging slab/arête. Up, verging right onto orange hanging slab/arête. 4 BR to DFLO as for TE.

Start: 3m left of TE.

FA: BE & B Cameron, 19 Aug 2015

Great climbing on a featured orange/grey wall. Up MMC stepping left onto wall at FH. Up, passing cam (BD. C4. 2) and 2 FH to DFLO.

Start: As for MMC. Obvious orange wall.

FA: BE Cameron, 19 Aug 2015

A great little corner. First route completed. Good rock and gear. Start: The obvious easy corner crack L of grey slab. Up cnr. moving R at top. Tree belay or right to DRBLO for slab routes.

B and BE Cameron 11/7/2013

An easy-featured grey slab. Start: As for MMC, up and immediately veer R, following slab & 4 BR, up to DRLO.

BE & B Cameron 9/8/15

Stick clip FH. A great slab route, pleasant climbing after a hard start.

Start: 5 M Right of MMC in middle of grey slab.

Set by Ben Sanford

FA: Ben Sanford, 19 Aug 2015

Stick clip FH. Hard start verging right onto jugs.

Start: 6 M Right of MMC.

FA: Ben Sanford, 19 Aug 2015

Clip FH. Traverse through orange section and straight up through to the anchors.

Note: I am yet to put in another bolt so this route doesn't wander on to mysticism use the mysticism bolt for now. Not a big deal.

FA: B Sanford, 11 Sep 2015

Stick clip FH. Climb through orange overhang up to jug; punch through crimps and on to an easy finish.

B Sanford

Set by Ben Sanford

Definitely not the best climbing I've done. Was a fairly sketchy FA. Crack is still dirty so gear is limited. Fairly awkward climbing but worth a go.

Follow the ring bolts. Look harder than 21.

Start: About 4m right of 'Kookaburra Crack'

Through the rooflet then left around the arete to shared lower offs with unknown. Looks harder than 21.

Start: About 6m left of 'Super Shine'

Excellent. A nice climb up grey and stunning orange rock. Start: At Angophora tree, up fused/thin corner to wall, RB. Up wall [4 RB’s] and orange steep slab to DFHLO below jutting roof.

FA: BE Cameron, 11 Jul 2013

Excellent. A nice variant climb to SS up grey & orange rock. Start: Up as for Weasel Words, L at second FH, up wall FH, L to RB on SS, up wall/orange steep slab, RB to DFHLO below jutting roof.

FA: B Cameron, 11 Oct 2014

Excellent. Climbs the twisted hanging arête on great rock. Steep start FH, move R to FH, following arête & featured steep slab to DRBLO below jutting roof.

Start: 2m R of SS.

FA: B Cameron, 4 Oct 2014

Good climbing on great rock. Start: As for WW. R at 2nd FH, transverse R to FH, up to FH at flake, up to bulge FH, up slightly L to join WW and FH’s to DRBLO as for WW.

FA: BE Cameron, 11 Oct 2014


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