Marchant's Canyon Crags Mostly Sport climbing36 routes in area
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Access canyon to a number of mid and lower tier crags.
Please do not mark or cairn the start of the descent from the access fire-trail. The fire-trail is frequently accessed by Joe Public.
Immediately following The Pit, continue left at the intersection and along the track for a further 3-400m. The track will bend back right up a small hill, then straighten out, slightly down hill. The access track will be on your left directly opposite a pile of stacked dead, pine trees. See attached photos of the start of the descent.
Follow the track down to a rock platform, then down to the right of the platform past a black, fixed rope. The track will be self-evident, continuing downwards into the canyon-proper.
Once the canyon opens back out, trend (skiers) left to the traverse rope. All crags will require you negotiate the traverse rope around into the next amphitheater. Recommended to harness-up for those in touch with their mortality.
Once in the forest of the next amphitheater, follow individual crag's description for access.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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