Showing all 40 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Uplander | |||||
25 | ★★ Montosaurus
Steep, burly and traddy. Bolted roof and trad protected steep flake crack just above the start of the fixed rope traverse across to Highlander. #0.75 Camalot protects crux on lip of roof - and the rest of the flake is protected by a single rack of finger/fist sized cams and medium/large wires. Save a #0.3 Camalot for vital shallow placement just below the top bolt. Rap anchor at top. FA: Heath Black, Paul Frothy Thomson & will vidler, 24 Jun 2018 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Happy Ending
Undercut corner halfway along the sketchy rope traverse to Waylander rap point. Use the rung to belay from (don't rust the old fixed rope). If the bottom of the route is running with water use the rung to get onto wall. FA: Heath Black & Aaron Jones, 8 Jan 2019 | 17m, 8 | |||
Highlander | |||||
28 | ★★ The Macleod
Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off. Set: Lee Cujes, 2016 FFA: Lee Cujes & Emil Mandyczewsky, 3 Nov 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★ Bloody Northerners
Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off. Set: Lee Cujes, 2016 FFA: Lee Cujes & Emil Mandyczewsky, 25 Sep 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
The Quickening (closed project)
Closed project. Low roof, then underclings to jug. Hard to right edge of the break, the step right via a mono into about four bodylengths of sustained, super hard face climbing. 9 bolts to lower off. Set: Lee Cujes, 2016 | 17m, 9 | ||||
29 | ★★ Three Barbarians | 15m, 6 | |||
28 | ★★ Men Will Fear You | 17m, 9 | |||
30 | So Now It Ends
Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos that probably favour a decent wingspan. Tom declined to grade this but climbed it in a couple of tries. Set: Lee Cujes, 2016 FA: Tom O'Halloran, 8 Jan 2023 | 17m | |||
Waylander | |||||
27 | ★★ Kaizen
Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Mar 2016 | 38m | |||
24 | ★★ Waylander
Excellent trad pitch with a great mix of styles. Start 3m left of Kaizen at ramp/flake. Straight up well protected face into crack and corner. Bolted belay at 38m, recommend 80m rope for lowering. Take double cams from 0.3 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Consider 3 x 2 Camelot and 3 x 3 Camelot. Lots of slings! FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 4 Mar 2016 | 38m | |||
28 | ★★ Gumption
3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2016 | 38m | |||
27 | ★ Nadir
5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Oct 2016 | 36m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Enforcer
12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Jan 2017 | 36m | |||
26 | ★★ Corner Drug
Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2016 | 36m | |||
27 | ★★★ Hard Reset
Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Oct 2017 | 36m | |||
28 | ★★ Water Hazard
Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Jan 2018 | 36m | |||
26 | ★★★ Megaflex
An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn! FFA: Heath Black & Lee Cujes, Jan 2018 | 40m, 20 | |||
23 | ★★ Multiplex
Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab. FFA: 26 Nov 2017 FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 26 Nov 2017 | 25m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★ The Darkest Hour
Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent. FFA: Heath Black, thomas wimmer & Duncan Steel †, 9 Jan 2018 | 25m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★ Hail Mary
Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face. FFA: Heath Black & Emil Mandyczewsky, 2 Jan 2018 | 28m, 12 | |||
23 | ★★★ Saw-Toothed Snake
Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish. FFA: Heath Black & Emil Mandyczewsky, 16 Jan 2018 | 28m, 13 | |||
23 | ★★★ Born Restless
Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness. FA: Heath Black, 18 Mar 2018 | 30m, 13 | |||
17 | ★ Four Pillars of Wisdom
Trad protected corner 10m left of STS. The top half has some remarkable but fragile rock features (including 4 small pillars). Lower off anchors on ledge. FFA: Neil Monteith, 10 Nov 2018 | 18m | |||
Cooper's Crag | |||||
17 | ★★ Strange Encounters
Beautiful orange corner. First ascent stopped at roof with natural belay immediately right and potential for a longer route on the upper section (which would need cleaning). Currently no anchors for descent so a steep, roped (downwards leading?) climb down to a large ledge with a tree where you can rap approx. 18m to the ground is required to get off. FFA: Brad Cameron & Ben Sanford, 28 Feb 2016 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ Defender of the Crown
Start as for Archon and trend right. Quality tricky blunt-flake climbing. | 30m | |||
26 | ★★★ Archon
Striking orange face/arete visible from The Pit abseil. Scramble up corner to belay on large terrace. The left line. One of the finest single pitch face routes at the grade in The Mountains. Stellar. 26/27 - grade still to be confirmed. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Oct 2016 | 30m | |||
20 | Princeling
Easiest sport route at the crag. Starts 2m left of Archon, but down at ground level just left of chimney. Flake start (stem off the back wall or add 4 grades) then up to huge hanging flake. At top of this swing left across face to arete and up this to anchors under little orange rooflet. FA: Heath Black, 18 Nov 2018 | 20m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★★ Cooper's Extra Stout
Corner crack 20m further left from Archon with brilliant yellow lichen. With proper sling-fu can be done in one 55m pitch. Abseil from tree at top to anchors of Wizball and then down. 55m rap. Take double cams from 0.4 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Lots of slings! FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky & tree jame, Sep 2016 | 55m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Wizball
1m left of Cooper's Extra Stout, up featured orange wall. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2017 | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ Nifta
Companion route to Wizball, starting 2m left. Hard start leads to tricky hard slabbing on big holds (?!). FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2017 | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Flight Plan
Directly around corner from Nifta. Start at base of flake/crack. Some techy and tricky beta through the bottom section, particularly if there is no chalk. Being drawn around right will end in tears. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Airwolf
Start in the middle of the wall below pockets. Unlikely climbing through pockets up to crimpy crux. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Nov 2016 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Ground Effect
A series of wicked reaches that require unconventional climbing. Pumpier than it looks. FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2017 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Familiar Faces in Unconventional Places
An unlikely trad route following a crack that seems to want to vanish into the face but continues all the way to a natural finish. To access walk quite a way left (facing the cliff) around from the last bolted lines on a fairly clear track. This will take you to a large grey face with an obvious cleaned crack that starts at the ground and goes to a ledge at about 8m. Start up the wide crack beneath the fern and up to VERY vegetated ledge. From here the climbing gets good and sees you blast up the immaculate finger crack and then truck diagonally rightwards following the crack system that links the series of horizontal breaks to the final wall and seam (very small gear, C3s or tiny X4s). Head up this into the corner and top out onto the nice ledge with the small tree and DBB. Best to bring a second up as cleaning it is painful (but doable). FFA: Will Vidler & Brad Cameron, 1 Dec 2017 | 30m | |||
The Belly of The Pit | |||||
Roof crack project
Clean roof crack with not so clean start. Anchors provided at the end of the good climbing for whoever is brave enough to tackle the start. | |||||
Project 1
Closed project - Jamie Baron Set: jamiebaron | |||||
Project 2
Closed project - Jamie Baron Set: jamiebaron | |||||
Project 3
Closed project - Jamie Baron Set: jamiebaron | |||||
Project 4
Closed project - Jamie Baron Set: jamiebaron | |||||
26 | ★★★ Last Minute Knockout
Climbs like a granite classic. Great little trad-y corner with a pumpy and techy finale. Be sure to stick clip the first bolt to protect the choss guarding the start. FFA: jamiebaron, Aug 2017 | 28m |
Showing all 40 routes.