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Access issues inherited from Marchant's Canyon Crags

Please do not mark or cairn the start of the descent from the access fire-trail. The fire-trail is frequently accessed by Joe Public.

Approach

Approach as per Marchant's Canyon. Once in the forest of the amphitheater following the rope traverse, turn left up and further into the forest at small cairn (missing the turn will take you to the rap point for Waylander etc.) Follow the track across the amphitheater, down under the waterfall and along the other side to a rope scramble. This will take you to the base of the cliff. No abseils/via ferrata required to access Highlander.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2016

FFA: Lee Cujes & Emil Mandyczewsky, 3 Nov 2016

Pouncy low roof, sloper crux, traverse left then cool hanging corner, arete and a baffling final move. 10 bolts to lower off.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2016

FFA: Lee Cujes & Emil Mandyczewsky, 25 Sep 2016

Closed project. Low roof, then underclings to jug. Hard to right edge of the break, the step right via a mono into about four bodylengths of sustained, super hard face climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2016

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Set by Lee Cujes

FFA: Lee Cujes, 10 Nov 2016

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Set by Lee Cujes

FFA: Lee Cujes, 22 Oct 2016

Open project! Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos. All the moves have been done.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2016

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