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Summary

A novel crag located on the bottom tier of Radiata Plateau. Waylander routes are long and varied on some quality rock.

Description

Waylander routes are long and often roof-y and wind-y. Long draws and sling runners are essential for all longer routes. An 80m rope is recommended for the long routes. A true 70m rope will require shenanigans for lowering, anything shorter will be a debacle.

Access issues inherited from Marchant's Canyon Crags

Please do not mark or cairn the start of the descent from the access fire-trail. The fire-trail is frequently accessed by Joe Public.

Approach

Approach as per Marchant's Canyon. Once in the forest of the amphitheater following the rope traverse, follow the track across and down to the abseil bolts. Affix a 50m rope and abseil down the via ferrata. Clipping the fixed draw is optional. Ensure that you have a suitable device (mini-traxion or equivalent) and gloves for ascent. This via-ferrata is steep and unforgiving so pack light and don't underestimate. Once at the base of the via ferrata, head climbers left for 100m to the first route (Kaizen).

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Mar 2016

Excellent trad pitch with a great mix of styles. Start 3m left of Kaizen at ramp/flake. Straight up well protected face into crack and corner. Bolted belay at 38m, recommend 80m rope for lowering. Take double cams from 0.3 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Consider 3 x 2 Camelot and 3 x 3 Camelot. Lots of slings!

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 4 Mar 2016

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2016

5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Oct 2016

12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Jan 2017

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dec 2016

Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Oct 2017

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Jan 2018

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, Jan 2018

Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab.

FFA: 26 Nov

FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thomson, 26 Nov

Walk 100m left along cliff base, under huge pocketed amphitheater and small waterfall, to the next bolted routes starting just right of a major corner.

Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent.

FFA: Neil Monteith, thomas wimmer & Duncan Steel, 9 Jan

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness.

FA: Neil Monteith, 18 Mar

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