Waylander Mostly Sport climbing14 routes in crag
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Waylander routes are long and often roof-y and wind-y. Long draws and sling runners are essential for all longer routes. An 80m rope is recommended for the long routes. A true 70m rope will require shenanigans for lowering, anything shorter will be a debacle.
Access issues inherited from Marchant's Canyon Crags
Please do not mark or cairn the start of the descent from the access fire-trail. The fire-trail is frequently accessed by Joe Public.
Approach as per Marchant's Canyon. Once in the forest of the amphitheater following the rope traverse, follow the track across and down to the abseil bolts. Affix a 50m rope and abseil down the via ferrata. Clipping the fixed draw is optional. Ensure that you have a suitable device (mini-traxion or equivalent) and gloves for ascent. This via-ferrata is steep and unforgiving so pack light and don't underestimate. Once at the base of the via ferrata, head climbers left for 100m to the first route (Kaizen).
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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