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Description

A small amphitheater of rock directly below The Pit with a distinct Squamish feel. The rock appearance is more akin to granite then traditional Blueys sandstone. Developed by Jamie Baron, the majority of routes here are closed projects.

Access issues inherited from Marchant's Canyon Crags

Please do not mark or cairn the start of the descent from the access fire-trail. The fire-trail is frequently accessed by Joe Public.

Approach

Approach as per Marchant's Canyon. Once in the forest of the amphitheater following the rope traverse, follow the track across and down to the abseil bolts. Affix a 50m rope and abseil down the via ferrata. Clipping the fixed draw is optional. Ensure that you have a suitable device (mini-traxion or equivalent) and gloves for ascent. This via-ferrata is steep and unforgiving so pack light and dont underestimate. Once at the base of the via ferrata, head climbers right and follow track around the base of the cliff for about 5 minutes.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Clean roof crack with not so clean start. Anchors provided at the end of the good climbing for whoever is brave enough to tackle the start.

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Set by jamiebaron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Set by jamiebaron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Set by jamiebaron

Closed project - Jamie Baron

Set by jamiebaron

Climbs like a granite classic. Great little trad-y corner with a pumpy and techy finale. Be sure to stick clip the first bolt to protect the choss guarding the start.

FFA: jamiebaron, Aug 2017

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