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Description

The left end of the wall has less steep more crimpy affairs, with the right end being the steep pumper zone. A good summer crag as it stays in the shade until mid afternoon. The left side of the main wall starts getting sun about 2.30 in summer, the steeper right side gets another hour or more of shade. Not a crag that you want to spend any time at if its windy or colder than about 15C.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

From the base of the access rope, head left (facing out).

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

This route is at the base of the access rope.

FFA: Karen Allen

A direct start to DKMS that starts from the ground.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Tricky off the deck to a good rest then interesting and sustained upper wall. Quite a unique route for this area.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

FFA: Megan Turnbull

This is an ok warmup if you pull through the undergraded crux.

FFA: Chris Coghill

Easy to the roof then gripping moves on good rock.

How you feel after inputting the data into the online guide.

The main and best warm up at the crag. Some of the best rock at main wall, guaranteed to raise a solid pump. It's supposed to start up the blunt arête but most people stay a bit left on the juggy flake of Desafinado.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

The obvious corner in the middle of the main wall.

FFA: Chris Coghill

Thin and sustained crimping!! Make sure you marvel at the DIY stone work at half height

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Hard start then a couple of tricky moves split by good jugs.

FFA: Andrew Duckworth

Hard thin moves from the ground to a hard move to gain the pocket before joining the original route. A better way to start Chocolate Trouble Cake.

FFA: Andrew Duckworth

Chocolate trouble cake direct into rabbit with fangs.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Classic 25 pumper, crank the steep start then keep pumping up the wall of jugs.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Great link-up of the 25 and the 27.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

If you can stick the first 3 bolts then you have done the hard stuff just keep pumping and pulling to the top.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

You can get a good idea of the crux from the ground, hard moves past the first 5 draws then jug it up with spice up the great orange wall above.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

The long one, starts off the big rock Cain.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Great long pumper thats isn't that hard. A dynamic start get you established on the wall where the slow burn begins.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Another long pumper with a dynamic pouce at the crux. Climbs really well and is much steeper then it looks.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Another of the classic steep 25's at farside.

FFA: Chris Coghill

Starts as for dark energy but head steeply up to the rest ledge. Swing out the roof and out right to the thin headwall.

FFA: steve G

FFA: Lloyd Wishhard

An old Coghill project sent by Lee. This takes a direct line up the impressive grey wall at the far end of main wall. More bolts then you need so pick the ones that suit.

Set by Chris Coghill

FFA: Lee Cossy

FFA: Steve Grkovic

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