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Description

Harder, high quality routes, all with different personalities. Apart from the warmup 23, the next easiest route is 27 unless you choose to try one of the 26 variants of Point Insertion. You can also warm up on the hangboard or the typically bouldery starts.

Access issues inherited from The Pit

Elphinstone Plateau is mostly private property, whereby landowners tolerate access for a variety of purposes. The tracks and paths are frequented by many users other than climbers so please keep our impact to a minimum. Avoid obvious track markers and cairns within sight of the main trails.

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Sector 'Pit Fighter' is the first sector encountered from the base of the rappel. This sector is protected from rain, though will drip from the top of the routes after many days of consistent rain. In summer it will get around 2 hours of sun between 2.30 - 4.30pm and no sun at all in winter.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Bring gloves...

The warmup this crag was missing. Start as for Mono then step R at the ledge; clip then backclean Mono's 1st bolt.

FA: Will Monks, 2016

Rightmost climb on the ledge, directly left of the Via Ferrata. A classic journey with an amazing mix of climbing.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 15 Aug 2013

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware.

Set by Tom O'Halloran, Nov 2014

FA: Tom O'Halloran, Jul 2016

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 11 Aug 2013

Start directly left of Pit Fighter. Bouldery start and more hard bits on bullet rock. Originally graded 31, you decide.

Set by Emil Mandyczewsky, 2013

FFA: Rick Willison, 30 Apr 2014

First route to be done at The Pit. Hard, bouldery and beta-y start leads to a quality, sustained pitch. The first 4m experiences some interesting seepage (straight out of the rock) and can be wet even when most of the crag is dry. Stick-clip past the start to the ledge for a very good, easy 26 or hard 25, depending on your height. You can also start up Sentinel for 6m then finish up Point Insertion for an even better 26.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 12 Jul 2013

7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 4 Aug 2013

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds. An excellent 28 linkup is to do Circling Vultures to half height then step L into North by Northwest.

Set by Scott Boladeras, 2013

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 13 Sep 2015

An awesome link-up featuring the easier halfs of two pit 30's Starts up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest.

Shared start with Circling Vultures. Up this and left at second bolt into confubulating crux then up. Bolted by Scotty and eventually gifted to anyone who could pull the crux. So far, this is only Tom. Unlikely to be your first 30....

Set by Scott Boladeras, 2013

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 7 Jan 2015

A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall.

Gingerly start off right cairn, shared start with Emil's 'Flight Risk' project. Hard moves off the cairn and trend right at ledge through big moves to shield/flake then up.

FFA: Logan Barber, 10 Dec 2014

Closed project going straight up through the roof flake off right cairn.

Set by Emil Mandyczewsky, 2014

Start off left cairn, powerful pull off pockets to start and bouldery crux off ledge. Could be 28.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 23 May 2014

Second route in from the left side of the wall, starting under the namesake dead tree at the top of the crag. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 10 Jul 2013

Last route on the left, starting about 2m left of The Sword.

Set by Emil Mandyczewsky, 2014

FFA: lee cossey, 30 Jan 2016

From the base of the via ferrata abseil another 15m through the trees to the valley floor. Or, scramble down the rungs L of Akimbo and walk 80m R to the same spot. From here, contour around (climbers right) to the edge of the amphitheatre. Steep start that requires some long slings to reduce drag. Impressive setting, perched above the valley.

FA: Scott Boladaras, Apr 2016

Activity

Check out what is happening in Sector 'Pit Fighter'.