The Nest Rock climbing25 routes in crag
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A nice beginners area with a good range of well bolted routes - it catches the afternoon sun so is a good crag for winter. There is some rather nice exposure as it is on the upper cliff.
Access issues inherited from Radiata Plateau
The vast majority of crags in this area are actually located on private property, and climbers access could be revoked at any time. There is an active community campaign to stop any housing development and make this public land. Be friendly and courteous to any non-climbers you see on the plateau - they could be the owners!
Park at the end of Pulpit Hill Road. Walk down the fire trail for 600m and turn hard right at the fork. Continue down the hill ~500 around to the left until you see an obvious cairn on the right - turn right onto the single track. Follow the trail marked with white arrows an cairns for ~500m until you reach a small climb down of about 3m. Immediately turn right (north) and follow the outcropping rock to an overhung cave, then follow the track (left) down and across the river. Continue until you reach the cliffs edge and turn right. This is the Main Area on the upper cliffs. The first climb (Bald Eagles) is at the far left hand (northern) end, with climbs listed left to right (north to south).
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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