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The Nest

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 30-35 mins
  • Photos: 13
  • Ascents: 344

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

May 2020 - some climbing crags in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20. All campgrounds are closed during Covid-19 restrictions and some are also damaged from bushfires and will be closed in the medium term.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Mt York, Bardens, Bellbird Wall and most of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 4 days ago

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Description

A nice beginner's area with a good range of bolted routes (many on carrots, and could be supplemented with cams) - it catches the afternoon sun so is a good crag for winter. There is some rather nice exposure as it is on the upper cliff.

Access issues inherited from Radiata Plateau

Most of this area is no longer private property as it was purchased by the NSW State Government in late 2019. A new Plan of Management is being drawn up (2020) with a focus on the area being a recreational reserve managed by National Parks. The Nest is the only known developed climbing area still on private property.

Approach

Park at the end of Pulpit Hill Road. Walk down the fire trail for 600m and turn hard right at the fork. Continue down the hill ~500 around to the left until you see an obvious cairn on the right - turn right onto the single track. Follow the trail marked with white arrows and cairns for ~500m until you reach a small climb down of about 3m. Immediately turn right (north) and follow the outcropping rock to an overhung cave, then follow the track (left) down and across the river. Continue up the other side and bear left at the next fork under the overhang. Carry on until you reach the cliff edge, and walk down a rocky gully the right. At the bottom turn right to find the Main Area on the upper cliffs. The first climb listed here (Bald Eagles) is at the far left hand (northern) end, with climbs listed left to right (north to south).

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Main Area Cliff
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