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Description

Area below Access gully at the base of the prominent arete (Jen Hawkins)

Access issues inherited from Red Point

Must Rappel into the crag/ climb out, no decent walking access has been found.

Ethic inherited from Red Point

Very minimalist crag in terms of bolting and access. Take care, keep the crag clean because we only get one chance.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start is marked with an A. Up big arching orange/red corner capped by a roof 15 M L of JH arête. Second pitch appears to goes up a big red wall with a high flake system? Unknown 1970’s?

1 16
2 12

Interesting climbing up a seam and slab. Take wires, small & med. cams. Start: Thin seam just L of Sunshine Crack. Pitch 1: 30 M [16] Up seam to FH [crux]. Up wall with pockets for cams, slab to BR, run-­‐out easy wall/slab, BR, up to belay for SC. Pitch 2: 15 M [12] Up JH arête to tree belay. Bruce Cameron, Brad Cameron, Tom Gilbert 8/6/13

Nice crack, slab and nose. Start: As for JH arête, at small tree, crack system 8 M L of JH arête. Pitch 1: 30 M [12] Up a few moves of JH, BR L to base of crack and up with good pro and climbing. Up to DBB and cam. (Old BR off route found here?) Pitch 2: 15 M [12] R 3 M from belay to nose, up as for JH. Bruce Cameron, Harry Luxford 29.5.13

Long, laid back, good-­‐looking arête. Take a few mixed cams. Has been done in one pitch. Start: The obvious soaring arête L of Angophora Crack. Start at small tree. Pitch 1: 15 M. (14) Up behind small tree to BR. Best to stick clip. Move R to arête base. Up passing BR’s, to FH, L [crux] to stance and lower offs for Skyfall. Pitch 2: 35 M. (12) Spaced BR’s and cams on nose/arête to belay tree. Bruce Cameron, Harry Luxford, Tom Gilbert, Brad Cameron 30.3.13

Excellent climbing up finger crack with some thin upper face moves. Start: Thin lightning bolt crack on black wall, R of Jen Hawkins nose. Pitch 1: Up crack to fixed peg and small cams. Up closed crack section [crux] to vertical finger crack, left (passing FH) to belay 1 as for JH (lower offs). Up arête [40M] or rap off. Brad Cameron Tom Gilbert 14.4.13

Nice varied crack climbing. The first pitch is superb. Start: Obvious aesthetic crack splitting the face at track level L of DOC crack. Pitch 1: 10M (15) Up hand crack and face. Great. Belay on small ledge/tree. Pitch 2: 45M (16) Move L and up ramp/corner to hanging knuckle size cnr. Up and follow cracks through steep bulges (crux), follow crack to top to belay trees. Brad Cameron, Bruce Cameron (Alt.), Harry Luxford, Tom Gilbert 30.3.13

Great crack climbing up a spectacular line. Start: Obvious striking crack with single fern above broken chimney. Pitch 1: 10 M Easy up to start of crack. Pitch 2: 25 M [19] Up cracks and chimney to little roof, up splitting crack, follow crack [fern] with good pro. Belay at rap point in gully. Pitch 2: 15 M [12] Up cracks/gully. Bruce Cameron Mick Holton 17.9.98 *Abseil access from trees near rock platform at track end to fixed rap-­‐point in Gilby’s Gully. 15 M rap to rap station. 30 M rap down Red Alert wall to slabs with care. Also rap point on The Terrace 20 M below.

Excellent thin crack and seam. Start: Up easy grey slabs with ease to crack. Pitch 1: 10 M [6] Easy slab to start of main crack/climb proper. Pitch 2: 25 M [23] Up and R, BR/SLCD’s at fused section [crux] up past FH to wide cnr. Up onto ledge. Best to rap off from here. Rap Station. Pitch 3: 15 M [12] Up cracks/gully. Tom Gilbert, Brad Cameron, Bruce Cameron 23.4.13

Activity

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