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Glenbrook Bluffs

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

March 2020 - many climbing crags and campgrounds in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Pierces Pass, Dam Cliffs, Mt York, Bardens, parts of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

Some public campgrounds are closed - including Mt York & Perrys Lookdown.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 21 days ago
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Summary

Short sport climbs and bouldering with super quick access and all day shade.

Description

This was the end of the line for the old tramway before the Glenbrook tunnel was built. It faces SE so is shady most of the day and has nice views across Glenbrook Gorge. There is potential for further development.

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Approach

Park at the end of Emu Road Glenbrook, walk down past the picnic shelter and either turn right and follow the path for 70m before following foot pads to the base of the crag or descend the foot pad directly below the shelter to access the other end of the crag.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Short slab with trick move at overlap. 3 fixed hangers and double ring bolt lower offs.

FA: Freja Moran, 1 Oct 2018

FFA: Emma Newall & Cam O'Leary, 20 Oct 2018

Start as for FS then step right and follow U bolts over arete and keep traversing all the way out to until you are above the middle of the roof. Best if the 2nd follows to clean.

FA: Cam O'Leary & Emma Newall, Oct 2018

Start in the cave and follow the crack and face out to the nose. Once on the slab step across onto the arete and continue straight up to the anchors.

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O'Leary, Nov 2018

Closed proj. Left side of an cave. Up hard wall to awkward top. Yet to be cleaned or attempted.

Want to look like Ray in that iconic shot? Or Warwick on Wokkers Roof, which if you look across the valley you can probably see? Look no further than up, and back. Then get every 4 and 5 cam you own or can borrow, tie in, and take the trip of a lifetime across 20 plus feet of the finest horizontal offwidth sandstone roof crack you can imagine.

Reality is separate, dreams are real.

Short and bouldery. Just to the left of the tree.

FA: Cam O'Leary, Oct 2018

Up the arete.Boulder start to easy ground. Take care.

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O’Leary, 16 Apr 2019

Chimney and wide crack in centre of crag

FA: Seong Hyman, vanessa gysbers, stuart sims & Joon Hyman, 31 Mar 2019

Up the slab like a rat up a drain pipe

FA: Cam O’Leary & Nic Plim, 16 Apr 2019

The short powerful route on RHS of the amazing cave. Up through the smiley face feature. Best to stick clip the 2nd bolt and climb the side of the feature.

FFA: Sean Moran, 12 May 2019

Crack/flake through to double ring bolt lower off (out of sight from ground)

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O’Leary, 16 Apr 2019

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