A popular all-weather sport crag, with a couple of hairy trad cracks as well. This 50m wide section of orange wall extends left from Constipation Chimney and is protected from heavy rain by a vast roof 30m above the deck. The base is totally dry for 5m out from the cliff, is fairly flat and is a great place to hang out when the weather turns nasty (most routes were established during the wettest summer in memory!). There are currently more than 15 sport routes, and several rarely repeated old school steep trad lines. Most routes are 20-25m single pitches which end at anchors just below a large shale ledge. There are a couple of ancient aid routes which continue through the roofs (future free trad potential?). Bring a rope mat as the base of the crag is dirty. Stick-clips are useful.
There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
Walk left from Theory of Negativity Wall for about 100m to arrive at grid-bolted steep wall with an eroded base. You can't miss it. It takes about 15 minutes from the carpark.
All of the sport routes have lower-offs - but if you top-out onto the shale ledge on one of the trad routes there are several rap anchors on the ledge - including one above Constipation Chimney, and another above Hells Bells.
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
The first routes established here would have been Constipation Chimney by members of the Rhum Du in the late '50s then rediscovered by the S.R.C. in '64. The first lines in the 'cave' were the aid lines through both tiers of the roofs climbed by Ewbank/Pickard, starting with Thumbs Down 13 M4 in 1967 (now ~23).
Activity ceased for almost half a century before the sport bolters discovered the area was dry in any weather. In the space of three years more than 15 sport routes were established, and several new trad cracks were also climbed. All of Ewbank's aid routes on the lower half of the crag were also free-climbed by Macca and Monty.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
18 | ★ Please Dry | ||
19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts | ||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years | ||
22 | ★★ La Niña | ||
24 | ★★ Driven | ||
25 | ★★ Binary Neil |
Jordan Maxwell on ★★ Flash Flood 21 - Misty days
★★ Thai Virus 22 - 6781034699_457b8fb87c_b.jpg
Jenga on ★★ Driven 24
James vilimaa on ★★★ Armistice 25 - Untitled-2-2.jpg
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