A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Macciza a.k.a. Macca Paul Frothy Thomson Anton Korsun Jason Lammers Graham Dowden Brendan Heywood Ben Jenga Luen Warneke Sam May Will Vidler
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. Iliad Buttress 7 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Iliad Buttress 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.736766, 150.337987
description
50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.
access issues
There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
descent notes
All these routes top-out onto tree belays. Scramble up and right to reach the tourist lookout and track to exit.
ethic
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Cynics United
Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.
FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 24 | 82m, 5 | |||||
2 |
I Don't Climb Wigglies
Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad. FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012 | 21 | 17m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ The Cynical Cypriot
Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes. Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out. FFA: Anton Korsun & Zac Lazatin, 7 Sep 2021 | 21 | 30m | |||||
4 |
★★ The Iliad
A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave. The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.
To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge. FFA: J Ewbank, 1968 | 16 | 87m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Trojan (The Illiad Pitch 2 Variant)
Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad. FA: Paul Thomson, 2013 | 23 | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Odyssey Walls
Start: Crack in middle of wall, left of 'The Iliad' and right of Constipation Chimney.
4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish. FA: Chris Regan & Bob Ryan, 1963 | 14 | 100m, 4 | |||||
7 |
★ Constipation Chimney
A major old-school line of little modern merit. Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.
FA: Rhum Du climbers FFA: D Tanner, 1964 | 12 | 110m, 7 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
12 | ★ | Constipation Chimney | 110m, 7 | ||
14 | ★ | Odyssey Walls | 100m, 4 | ||
16 | ★★ | The Iliad | 87m, 4 | ||
21 | I Don't Climb Wigglies | 17m, 9 | |||
★★ | The Cynical Cypriot | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ | Trojan (The Illiad Pitch 2 Variant) | 25m | ||
24 | ★★ | Cynics United | 82m, 5 |