Devondale Rock climbing3 routes in cliff
- Grades: AU
- Aka: Sunbath Bouldering
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A large weatherproof overhang covered in chalky holds. A lot of traversing and a few hard, steep problems. Good for training but not that inspiring.
Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath
Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.
From the end of Belgravia Street, follow the track down the hill as for the Sunbath. Take the first right turn down an overgrown track. This soon crosses another track - continue heading straight down the hill, past some scrambly sections, to the base of the first cliffline. The bouldering area is straight ahead on the left, some unknown routes are to the right.
It is also possible to walk around from the Sunbath climbing area (much longer and overgrown). From the Sandpit, continue heading around the cliffs to the North, following a rough track. The track turns to the right and negotiates some big rocks before the bouldering area.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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