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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
22 Brothers K

From the base of the upper descent gully, on the approach to The Three Brothers (lower cliff), turn right and walk 40m. Continue past closed project on a steep orange nose (red tag first bolt) to Brothers K, up the centre of a narrow shady wall with an undercut start and a ferny corner to the right.

Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Double U-bolt lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner & Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson., 12 Jun 2010

Sport 18m, 5
Kalifornication

Short, steep orange nose with U-bolts, 20m right (south) of Brothers K. Closed Project.

UnknownProject
6 Easy Oasy

"Take care with pro" (Owens). Start 10m right of the Three Brothers descent gully (83m right of Escapism).

  1. 13m, up to stance 7m left of arete (piton belay).

  2. 17m up to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens,

Trad 30m, 2
7 Easy Oasy Arete

Start as for Easy Oasy.

Right onto arete and up to tree.

FA: G. Owens,

Trad 40m
9 Green Gully Arete

Start at crack 7m right of Easy Oasy.

  1. 20m, crack and arete to tree.

  2. 20m (9) overhang then slightly right and up to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens,

Trad 40m, 2
15 The Great Escape

Start on big block 3m right of Green Gully Arete.

  1. 8m (15) Traverse right off block on to wall. Right a few metres, easier right, up, back left and up to piton belay.

  2. 15m, 1m right and up over lip to tree belay.

  3. 14m, Step 1m left and up through slight break in overhang.

FA: B. Crouch, G. Owens 1970 & G. Owens

Trad 37m, 3
15 Gung Ho

A variant start to The Great Escape, start 5m right of it.

  1. Up 1m, traverse right to break, up and back left to The Great Escape belay 1.

FA: P. Edwards,

Trad 13m
12 Red Crack

Start at corner 10m right of The Great Escape.

  1. 13m, corner, out on to wall and up crack, piton belay.

  2. 20m, up, traverse right and up arete to tree belay.

  3. 17m, crack through overhang then easy wall.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens,

Trad 50m, 3
13 White Wall

A variant start to Red Crack, start 5m right of it on big block at base of chimney.

Traverse left off block and up past bolt runner to block on arete at belay 1 of Red Crack.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens,

Trad 50m
12 Blue Chimney

A variant start to Red Crack. Start at chimney 1m right of White Wall.

  1. 23m, chimney to piton belay in roof.

  2. 13m (12) chimney to Red Crack belay 2.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison,

Unknown 53m, 2
19 Alfonso Dominico Jones

Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off.

Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials.

Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 26 Jul 2010

Mixed 22m, 4
15 M2 The Seventh Labour

"Take care" (Owens) Start at scrubby corner 10m right of Blue Chimney.

  1. 23m (crux) Aid crack, free to small corner, up and back left into main corner, up to chimney and roof of cave.

  2. 17m, slight chimney and wall left to V chimney, up and out of it. Corner then step right or left and up.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison,

Aid 40m, 2
20 Crankenfurten

From the base of the lower descent gully follow the cliff line along to the right (north) for about 100m past undercut black slabs and eventually a tall yellow wall capped by a roof. At the far end of this wall is the blocky orange buttress of Crankenfurten.

Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall.

Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off.

FA: Tom Hepner, Aug 2010

Sport 23m, 10

Showing all 13 routes.