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description

The splitter line 3m L of Amen Corner, initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains (which are a bit outdated).

Route history

1966First ascent: John Ewbank (rests) "It got dark so the second didn't follow"
1974First free ascent: M. Law

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.60333, 150.25344

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
21 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
21 Blue Mountains Climbing
23 [22 - 23] ++ grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 94 from 160 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 44
Flash 10
Red point 47
Tick 30
Pink point 6
Top rope 22
Attempt 107
Target 11

Comment keywords

intimidating tricky unprotected scary fall beautiful exciting fantastic brilliant perfect wicked classic super rad stoked fun good cool awesome incredible nice great classy lovely amazing interesting thrutchy fiddly fingers sunny hands dry chimney flake polished crap rest offwidth slippery easy crack layback weird sharp slopey awkward smooth steep feet roof cruisy traverse mantle jugs jamming fist face bad crazy epic strenuous solid difficult hard crux struggle stuffed sustained pumped desperate challenging dyno tough tired

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