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Right Side Lower

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

March 2020 - many climbing crags and campgrounds in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Pierces Pass, Dam Cliffs, Mt York, Bardens, parts of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

Some public campgrounds are closed - including Mt York & Perrys Lookdown.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 20 days ago
7

Access issues inherited from Victoria Falls

Crag is in National Park - no dogs/fires/smoking.

©

Approach

Rap down from below the bottom of the access gully.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rap off tree down from SOA. P1 Through roof, corner to cave P2 20 through roof on R, crack.

FA: R Baker, R.Young & S Young, 1988

Furthest corner up stream on lower cliff. P1. Up into wide enjoyable crack on face , a #5 cam would be handy near top , then up flakey corner to standing belay ledge. Natural belay though anchor of sport route makes handy high runner. P2. Up cleaner crack in large slot, the opposite of exposure. Shimmy right when crack peters out to good horizontal + ubolt belay or extend gear and top out proper. P3. Short scramble right then up to med cam and tree belay.

FFA: Evan Wells & Jacindi Jackson

Line of U's to single U lower off. Left of NBT

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Jacindi Jackson

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