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Right Side Upper

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5

Access: Bushfire related crag closures

May 2020 - some climbing crags in the Blue Mountains are officially closed due to extensive damage from bushfires and floods over Xmas period 2019/20. All campgrounds are closed during Covid-19 restrictions and some are also damaged from bushfires and will be closed in the medium term.

Refer to this spreadsheet for current crag access status. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1RiHEop3gOTQ2J3PZwtx1GlRpw4aklJzzROrFnL3aDpw/edit?fbclid=IwAR2RDLi5u2NZn4nS80JarQSUVI3FT-FWw_bJuZNbPjv5Yi94HMzcg8gfnjE#gid=0

Areas that have been burnt and will not reopen for many months include Mt York, Bardens, Bellbird Wall and most of Narrow Neck including Diamond Falls.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 months ago - Edited 7 days ago
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Access issues inherited from Victoria Falls

Crag is in National Park - no dogs/fires/smoking.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Sharp slabby arete next to access gully. Seems a long way to the first rusty bolt - take care.

FA: T. Carlos & Mike Myers, 1988

Start at first "obvious" crack right of access gully.

  1. 25m Crack to roof, flaky rock through roof, belay on rock on arete.

  2. 5m Arete to top of main block then step across to main cliff. Scramble off.

FA: W. Williams, 1988

Left most ringbolted route on the main cliff starting between two small caves. Climb pillar and wall to lower-off.

FA: R. Mackillop, 1989

Ringbolted route 2m right of Peace Frog. Currently red-tagged.

4 rusty carrots up the wall left of War Crimes. First bolt is very high and the top looks dirty. This route was not recorded in previous print guidebooks but looks like its from the 80s.

Initialed major crack halfway along wall. Stem up easy corner to start then wide crack which narrows to perfect hands. Topout looks vegetated. BR to belay from.

FA: Rod Young & R. Baker, 1988

The rest of the routes past this point seems very dirty and unloved. Bolts are also rusted.

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