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To the right as you come out of the descent gully.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Grade Route

Left on the Juggy Wall

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 13 May 2012

Start at a sandy flake left of the cave.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 13 May 2012

Start on block right of Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum, Up and diagonally left to blunt arete.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 2012

To the right of the arete.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 6 May 2012

Right of Lazy Lizards

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 6 May 2012

Companion route to the right of A Soft Touch

FA: Set by B Jung, FA: S Smith & J Crass, 16 Apr 2017

Start 8m right of A Soft Touch on next buttress. Up bulging slab with belay bolt at base of climb

Set by B Jung

FA: J Allwood, 2015

Delicate slab.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 17 Aug 2017

Follow the flake.

15m right of the block.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

Short wall 2m right of Avian Antics.

Set by B Jung

FA: J McCullogh, Aug 2012

Juggy arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, Sep 2012

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

(Training Ring to Right).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, Sep 2012

Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs

Set by Barry Jung, 2017

FA: Barry Jung, 2017

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

Set by B Jung

FA: Josie McCullogh, 22 Sep 2012


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