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Summary

Pump and steep

Description

Large roof capped overhang and surrounding area south of historic wells. Is a good wet weather option as a few routes stay dry in heavy periods of rain.

Access issues

Presently (21.10.2014) many large fallen trees and limbs have obscured sections of track in initial access gully due to heavy snowfall last week. Not too hard to just walk around them , will get a saw down there eventually.

Approach

Park at 'Historic Wells' signed turn off, approx 1klm before Bardens Lookout, then walk 35 mtrs along single trail back toward town, turn right at first orange hiker sign on tree, walk 20mtrs then walk down gully staying right until at base of undercut pillar on right. Then traverse left well under cliffs on wombat trail passing above fallen boulder. First route you pass by is 'non stop crush' on fine red face then cave is 100m around corner. 10min all up from car.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

climb corner to high first bolt (optional #1 cam) then up red face. Lost a crimp and gained a grade.

FFA: E.Wells, 26 Feb 2014

Seam 5m right of nsc. Bring doubles of #4 cam , then #0.4 , #0.5 , and #3. Stick clip first bolt then up. Sustained with a bit of everything.

FFA: Evan Wells, 9 Dec 2014

Start R of MS. Stickclip first bolt , hard footless first moves from pocket leads to funky climbing.

FA: Evan Wells, 31 Dec 2014

Non Stop Crush, The Coolabah Kids, Goat Chops, Goats Meat , Bitchymen and Eyes of Faith all stay dry in the rain. Bitumen roof gets wet at the top crux.

Starting just outside of the cave section is an old abandoned line. Start up left of steep corner (cams) to line of RBs traversing out right to the arete, abruptly ending with no anchor.

Not many details are know about this line and is considered open??

Set

The extension to TCK.Craft a move past the TCK anchor , have a picnic, then up arette/scoop (crux) , crank through rooflet and up to DUB anchor.

Set by E . Wells, 27 Aug 2014

FFA: 14 Oct 2014

Bouldery and steep , bolted and climbed in heavy rain. Warm up for climbing above. Stickclip first draw. Stays dry.

Set by E . Wells, 19 Aug 2014

FFA: E. Wells, 21 Aug 2014

' My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!' yep , three years and one week.. from the ground climb tck , clip high bolt on arrete , sit on the ledge and pull the rope through then up heading right after hands free rest on arette. A 80cm sling above kneebar rest and two more on traverse /crux were used. A grade 30 move or two on a grade 25 route. Would be very soft for tall people. Happy to downgrade if anyone repeats it clean from ground and dissagrees with 29.

Set by E .Wells, 21 Oct 2014

FFA: Evan Wells, 28 Oct 2017

Start just to the right of Nobodies Business at the L pocket and R crimp. Up to the ledge via crimp and slope.

FFA: 27 Dec 2014

Independent route 20 meters left of main cave leading up across low roof (crux) then up and left to nice moves and lower off.

FFA: E. Wells, 15 Jul 2014

Route on left side of cave taking line through right of prow to single u lower off on head wall. Punchy photogenic last moves in steep terrain! Best to back jump one or two bolts for cleaning as rope can get stuck in groove when pulling.

FFA: E.Wells, 25 Jan 2014

Start 2m R of EOF through steepness with a crux in the middle to big rest then bust on through chipped roof and pull lip (crux) then up head-wall another 8m with typical rope drag. Very gymnastic and lots of fun!

Set by E. Wells, 29 Jun 2014

FFA: E. Wells & J. Tam, 3 Aug 2014

Climb Bitumen Roof and lower off DRB under arette crux.

Starts up corner then through series of rooflets. Pass Bitchymen loweroffs with a big move Work both sides of arete at the crux, then fight the pump leading left to nice red headwall. A few extendable draws help with rope drag.

FFA: E.Wells, 10 Feb 2014

Bring a full rack with slings.Start by climbing past first 3 bolts of goatmeat. The first move is not considered in the grading of climb., clip 4th with sling and traverse left and up to large stance below bulge/steep corner. Pitch 2: up with plenty of small gear to squirmy move under roof proper then out to steep easy terrain. Belay from small tree backed up by slung boulder. Looking out walk left 10 meters to rap points in cave above slab. It is a 30 meter rap but can be reset at 20 mtr if neccesary.

FFA: Eric Butler & Evan Wells, 27 Dec 2014

Another total pumper, pull over bulge at first bolt then up up up to steep finish. Good warm up for other two in cave.

FFA: E.Wells, 4 Feb 2014

Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!?

FFA: Evan Wells, 1 Jan 2016

Over to the slab. All these routes require bolt plates.

Campus start steeply past two fixed hangers then cruise slab past carrots to lower off at 20mtrs

FFA: E.Wells, 21 Feb 2014

Around the corner, Two fixed hangers to line of BR's and lower offs at 30mtrs. Mostly grade 9 with a few moves down low. Can be used to top out. Bring 10 bolt plates.

FFA: E.Wells & J. Tam, 25 Jan 2014

Start as for Instant Pudding stemming corner then left to arrete (bolt) then up arrete with good protection to obvious crack. Nice moves to offwidth crux (#6 cam) then continuing up arette past horizontal finally veering left toward B.D lower off, clip this or keep it real and use natural pro all the way to the top cave (2BB) and walk or rap off. Bring 3 bolt plates, a single rack of cams, possibly doubles of #2 and some big cams too.

FA: Elliott Ashe, Clare Obarowski & Evan Wells, 30 Apr 2014

Requires 10 bolt plates if doing it in one big pitch. Start far right of wall, stem dirty corner, looking for feet leading left, and brave dodgy runout to first carrot on arete (extended sling recommended) then traverse 15mtrs across lip of roof to optional 2xfh belay. Then up up passing beside a large tapering block you simply don't touch or step on. Hump your way onto ledge on left to most comfortable DUB belay in universe . A 60mtr rope will get you to ground from this lower off if you want to belay second from the ground. Few ascents and some lightfooted climbing required!

FFA: E.Wells & R. Basset, 7 Apr 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Goats Meat Cave.