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Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.


Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams & P.Giles, 1972

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ? & J.Wurth, 1972

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Martin, 1984

P1: 20m Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

P2: Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

FA: L Smith & W Williams

FA: C.Martin, J.Smoothy & G.James, 1985

Up left side of arete. Take small cams and a set of nuts for the bottom, 4BR's at top. DBB.

Rebolted May 2007

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & L.Trihey, 1984

P1: Start as for PIS, right into fantastic corner and up around the slight rooflet. Go left under bulge at top to anchors as for Gently Mine.

P2: Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. Rebolted August 2017.

FA: K Bell & H Bevan

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell, G.Mortimer, J.Morgan. (. B.Allen & W.Williams), 1972

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.? & J.Wurth, 1972

Start 10m left of Charlie Brown on slabby face - very faint square and PP just visible on rock.

P1 - up slab to large ledge with dead trees (30m) P2 - up face on jugs to top. (30m)

Take care on the top pitch, rock quality is iffy

FA: B Postill & B. Smith, 1968

A slab with little pro. Start on wall 10m left of Pig Pen

P1 Up wall and slab to large ledge (30m) P2 Up on jugs o top (24m)

FA: B Postill & I Smith, 1967

P1. Overgrown Chimney to ledge.

P2. Up left from ledge, then trend right along slab following the crack to top. Walk out.

Take lots of slings. All natural anchors.

A super fun and technical little route around the corner from the main stuff. Mostly carrots but take a no. 2 or 3 camalot for the start. DBB at top.


Check out what is happening in Walk-Down Gully.