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Description

Mainly awesome Porters Pass style rock. Cruxes often involve heel hooks, Dyno's or long moves. 15 min from carpark... in the shade till late afternoon in Summer, all Day shade in Winter. Stays dry in the Rain, might seep after a few days of rain.

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.

Approach

Park as for Mt Boyce carpark one. Follow the walk down track for about 10mins until you reach a fork in the track, 100m from picnic spot. Veer left into bush along ridge for about 100m following stone cains, then follow track down left below small cliffs to last cliff, then turn left down to crevasse gully with big chockstone. climb down onto and past chocksone on rungs, then down gully. From Crevasse Gully walk left (facing out) for 100m, the first Climb you get to is "Unstuck in Time" . To get to the Top, don't go down rungs next to chockstone, use short rope and rung on top of chockstone and follow path along the cliff.

Descent notes

either abseil off over face, 55m. or abseil over back off rings 5 m. below Top. 10 meters to Anchor, then 36m. to ground or 20m. to mid way Anchors. (clip some draws on the way!)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

History

View historical timeline

Most routes haven't seen repeats, so grades are to be confirmed......

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first Route you get to, Up the Arete and right at the Top. Pretty wild...

FFA: Stephan Meng, Nov 2017

4 meters right of Arete. Stick clip second Bolt, starts to the right. Open your Hips for the Heel / Toe crux...

FFA: Stephan Meng, Aug 2017

Start up the Rungs about 7 meters right from Arete. Sweet Mountains climbing

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Classic... there may be a jump, or 3!!! Same start as Spiderpuss, up the Rungs then go right.

Set by Luke Mulkearns

FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Oct 2017

There's a few different ways to go. good warm up... Starts in the Corner next to tree, then up and slightly left, shares Anchor with Banana man.

Set by Luke Mulkearns

FFA: Luke Mulkearns, Sep 2017

1 22
2 24

Start next to obvious ramp. about 50 m. from Waterfall. hard move off the ground ( if u pull on the Draw take a grade off) then up and slightly right to Belay. up to big rest underneath roof, then suck it up and traverse right to lip, up slab. BRING PRUSICS FOR SECOND, as they might end up in space. kind of airy, kind of scary!!! The second Pitch is Grade 24.

FFA: S. Meng Ellen Meads, Jul 2015

Start up "Luft" for the first few bolts, then traverse right and up. Second Pitch is closed Project.

FA: S. Meng, Aug 2015

Starts up the Rungs just passed "luft ".Flexible Hips might help at the first crux..!! Finishes at the same Anchors as "Wasser" on the left.

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Links "Intergalactic Holistic Space Traveller" into "Soak up the atmosphere" on the right. and avoids the top crux of I.H.S.T.

FFA: Stephan Meng, Sep 2017

Second Pitch of "Intergalactic Atmosperic Traveller" , or Abseil in from the Top. It's the big right leaning seam you can see from the Ground on the right side of the Cliff. Be cautious with the big plates between first and second bolt. Fridge hugging dyno crux....

FFA: S. Meng & J.Patterson(single), Oct 2015

Activity

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