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The area to the right of the ladder descent (facing out!). The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT (facing in) starting at the far end of the crag. So it's really the left side.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Start: 3m right of DD.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1977

There is a double bolt belay on the ledge at the top of 100 Foot Slab P1, and twin stainless bolts with chains on the upper wall 3m left facing in (commercial abseil anchor?). Beware the hail of broken rocks right of here at ground level from said groups who rap above.

Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner. 2). Up just right of corner. Rap or walk of right.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

FA: K.Westren & T.Batty, 1961

Left along traverse 5m, up flakes to piton, left to arete, right side of arete, up, then left and up steepening to belay. First bolt was pulled out by hand recently (2016), and is now missing Start: On big ledge as for DD pitch 2.

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1978

Direct up arete of 'Day of Reckoning'

Start: Left from 100 ft Slab

Start: As for DoR but straight up the arete after the traverse.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1984


Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Chickenhead and bolt, up and left.

Start: 2m right again!

FA: P.Butcher, A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

To roof, right above lip and up easy slab.

Start: 8m right again.

FA: M.Law & W.Baird, 1978

Up wall, right along footledge and up, flake, right onto ledge, right 5m then wall tending left. 2). Up.

Start: 3m right of CL at break in overhang.

FA: P.Butcher & A.Penney, 1978

Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro!

Start: 4m right of 100'S.

FA: A.Penney & W.Baird, 1978


Start: 3m right again.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1977

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Penney, 1977

Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall.

Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1979

Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge.

Start: 4m right of SH.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

To ledge, roof on left and up to tree. 2).Past overhang, onto wall, up to piton, right to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 15m right again on scrubby slab.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

Up and right through choss to yellow corner, up to triangular block, right past bolt, choss to ledge. 2). Left and up to shelf beneath overhang, to wall, uo to small ledge. 3). Up and right. Take wires!

Start: Slab 3m right of E.

FA: A.Penney.G.Prime, 1977

Crack to ledge, right and up crack, right along hand traverse, corner to detached block, left across wall, up to ledge - belay here. back right, up to roof, left and over roof to bolt, up, slight left to small ledge. small tree and detatched block belay 2). Up and right (not much gear)through overlap(with fear!) and up to bolt, then belay.

Start: 10m right of JoA.

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & m.Zuiderduin, 1977

Start: 12m right of CX. Up to bolt below overhang then original.

FA: P.Jenkins & H.Ward, 1967

Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care!

Start: 30m right of CX.

FA: B.Allen & T.Batty, 1963

Corner to ledge. 2). Aid ladder then free. Take care!

Start: 12m right of SW at scrubby corner.

FA: J.Worrall & B.Postill, 1967

As for V. 2).Right into corner, up to traverse, arete then up. 3). Up.

Start: From V anchor 1.

FA: J.Worrall & B.Postill, 1967

Start: 6.5 left of of 'Arabesque'

Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall.

Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively.

8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Bulge then left for pro, back right and straight up to K anchor.

Start: 4m right of A.

FA: J.Smoothy & S.Moon, 1983

Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney.

Start: Weakness 3m right of TL.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up.

Start: 6m right of K.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

Up to piton and on to ledge, belay in recess. 2) 'Steep' corner, rooflet and up.

Start: Thin crack 7m right of SG.

FA: S.Knight & G.Weigand, 1983

Up left to tree, to small ledge. 2).Diagonally right. 3). Diagonally then horizontally right to jugs and ledge, to tree. 4).Up.

Has a Ds at 21.

Start: 16m right of TFP.

FA: T.Batty & F.Kitchener, 1962

Over bulge to chain.

Start: From CB anchor 2.

FA: A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

FA: M.Law, 1983

Steep green crack. 2).Out and up to piton. 3&4). UP.

Start: 7m right of SJ.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

As for KK to thin traverse to cave, crawl left to belay. 2).Back to piton, over bulge and up to tree. 3). Up.

Start: As for KK.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1978

Start: 13m right of KK. Below fixed crab (?).

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1980

Corner, traverse left and up, left to bolt, down and left to rest, through roof, traverse right, up and left to belay. 2&3). Wall trending left.

Start: Left facing corner 9m right of DS.

FA: G.Bradbury, D.Wagland & A.Penney, 1978

Corner then right to nose, aid roof on many bolts and pitons. 2&3). Up.

Start: As for ST.

FA: J.Pickard & J.Smith, 1967

Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up.

Start: 10m right of MM.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Up to bolt, trend right to piton, up, up and left to double bolts, left along lip then weakness up to roof, over, up and right to bush. 2). Right to corner and up.

Start: 10m right of L at groove.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

Tree to jug, groove to bulge, over, up to ledge on right. 2).Diagonally left to base of corner. 3). Corner.

Start: 4m right of FT.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1977

Up then right around arete and up onto loose block, right of arete. 2). Void then arete and groove, onto ledge to girder.

Start: 3m right of TBR.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1978

Up trees onto ledge, left and up to arete, right below blocks to ledge. 2). Overhang and right to girder. 3). Up and left to arete, up.

Start: 10m right of CT (dead trees).

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977


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