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Routes as aid in Narrow Neck Crags

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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Crag
14 M6 Chancellorsville

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

FA: J.Pickard & R.Reynolds, 1968

Aid 48m
13 M5 Dixie

Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner.

Start: 12m right of C.

FA: J.Pickard, D.Leak & R.Reynolds, 1968

Aid 70m
Main Bivouac Ledge
15 M0 Algae Corner

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener & K.Westren, 1962

Aid 50m
17 M0 Shadows on the Wood

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Aid 37m
16 M0 The Long and Winding Road

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

  1. 255m (-)

  2. 73m (-)

Aid 420m, 2
19 M2 Solidifan

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Aid 33m
15 M3 Boston Tea Party

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

Aid 33m
18 M2 Lunatic

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1967

Aid 46m
19 M4 Necrophiliac

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

Aid 33m
14 M0 R It's More Fun Than Playing Pool

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Aid 21m
13 M4 R Piton Gambit Bracket Direct

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

FA: R.Reynolds & J.Pickard, 1967

Aid 21m
15 M1 R Ectoplasm

Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!!

Start: 1m right again at thin crack.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Aid 65m
20 M4 Rising Sun

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Aid 52m
100' Slab Area
13 M4 Stoner Highway

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Penney, 1977

Aid 57m
12 M1 R Vorhung

Corner to ledge. 2). Aid ladder then free. Take care!

Start: 12m right of SW at scrubby corner.

FA: J.Worrall & B.Postill, 1967

Aid 47m
13 M4 Arabesque

Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall.

Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively.

8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Aid 54m
22 M3 Krakatoa

Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney.

Start: Weakness 3m right of TL.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Aid 61m
21 M3 Square Gully

Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up.

Start: 6m right of K.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

Aid 75m
14 M2 Rin Tin Tin

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Aid 52m
11 M4 Mickey Mouse

Corner then right to nose, aid roof on many bolts and pitons. 2&3). Up.

Start: As for ST.

FA: J.Pickard & J.Smith, 1967

Aid 60m
13 M2 Locust

Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up.

Start: 10m right of MM.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Aid 66m
Southern Crag
20 M2 The Vandal

Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.

  1. 20m (20) Rooflet and corner to ledge.

  2. 19m (20) Corner, right and up to the girder.

FFA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy

FA: (J.Ewbank & R.Reynolds), 1967

Aid 39m, 2
20 The Delinquent

Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up.

Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches.

FA: ewbank/worrall ffa j.smoothy

Aid 36m
10 M5 Guico Piton Direct Start
Aid 25m
16 M2 Determination Walls

Start: 6m right of LYM.

1). Cheat stone then right into corner (LYM)left to piton, left to ledge. 2). Right to shelf, overhang to belay. 3). Slab and wall trending right, left to belay. 4). Corner to roof, ledge to belay 5). Aid, then free to belay. 6). Left an

FA: J.Ewbank, C.Regan & A.Campbell, 1964

Aid 82m
M1 unknown

Start: Right of C at bolt ladder leading up right.

Aid 20m
14 M3 The Creature

1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right.

Start: Ar right end of Psyncave.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1978

Aid 40m
11 M5 Panadol

1). Crack, left, up next crack, to ledge. 2).Aid wall on right, traverse to crack, up to ledge. 3).Traverse off or take crack.

Start: 15m right of TC.

FA: J.Pickard & D.Leak, 1968

Aid 43m
16 M3 Exodus

Lasso bolt, aid left and up, mantle to ledge on nose, free and aid to roof. 2).Traverse right, over roof, corner, up to flake. 3).Corner to ledge. Exit left or 4).Up nose.

Start: 70m right of P. Scramble up from track.

FA: D.Fletcher & J.Brown, 1970

Aid 92m
12 M4 Rise of the Valkyrie

Aid to overhang, over, up to corner then ledge. 2).Up cracks to corner end. Aid, then free to ledge.

Start: 1m right of LE.

FA: W.Williams, 1970

Aid 75m
17 M5 Fletcher's Effort

Take care with pro and grade!

Start: As for RotV.

FA: D.Fletcher, 2000

Aid 62m
17 M1 Skeleton Grooves
  1. Up corner, move left near top onto grey wall, up to KM anchor 1

  2. Corner

  3. Groove then left wall, up, left to corner, around nose on left and up to stance

  4. choss to shale ledge

  5. Traverse right on ledge

  6. Aid through roof, up and right to stance

  7. Up

Start: Scrubby corner 2m right of KM.

FA: J.Ewbank, A.Gordon & Bryden Allen †, 1964

Aid 130m
15 M3 R How Does Your Garden Grow

Up to bush at base of corner, aid then up and left over choss to ledge, right and up wall to ledge, traverse left to belay. 2). Left, then up and left to ramp, up easy, right on traverse line (bush) corner then step left onto nose. Up to scrubby ledge. 3). Finish as for KM pitch 5.

Start: 33m right of KK. Scramble up to ledge above the track.

FA: A.Penney & G.Herbert, 1978

Aid 80m
18 M1 Eve of Destruction Variant Start
Aid 35m
12 M3 The Sickle

Up corners and ledges, traverse right to small gully, up to roof. 2).Corner, over roof, onto ledge and up to tree. Finish up 'Pawn Wall'.

Start: 20m right at right curving crack.

FA: K.Bell & H.Bevan, 1969

Aid 37m
Herbaceous Gully
17 M3 R The Pearls of Anger

Up to ledge. 2). Corner on right, crack to right, back to corner, aid then left, left to stance. 3). Corner, right, under roof, around lip to metal thingy, aid chossy crack, ledge, then left to bush. Scramble off or finish as for TBoH.

Start: 6m right again. Corner.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Shirley, 1967

Aid 60m
8 M2 Parallax

Aid crack to bolt, right to crack, aid again then to ledge. 2&3).Wall and scrub. This may have been freed!!!

Start: 25m right of IO.

FA: W.Williams & B.Mattick, 1970

Aid 92m
M4 Deep In Thought? No Dandruff?

Perchance one of the examplars of the Neck 70's aid renaissance, both in quality and name.

Start: At overhanging right leaning crack about 30m left of Diamond Spray waterfall.

  1. 27m Blades, Arrows and bolts to narrow scrub ledge below open book corner. Rap off, or ...

  2. 15m Traverse right through scrub to finish just left of waterfall.

FA: A. Penney & G. Herbert, 1977

Aid 42m

Showing all 38 routes.

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